Creamy and comforting Asian rice porridges are prepared by gently simmering rice in liquid, such as water or stock, until the starches release. These soups are generically called cháo in Vietnamese, but in America, they’re better known as porridge or congee. The thrifty, versatile soups soothe stomachaches, colds, and hangovers. They’re a breakfast and lunch food, but don’t let this stop you from enjoying them for dinner.
Given that simmering can take a good hour, and the pot often threatens to boil over, Viet cooks have their tricks, such as using broken rice grains to hasten the cooking process. I simply soak cooked leftover rice overnight, and simmer for 15 minutes the next day. Here’s my basic recipe. See the Notes for options using other grains.
Lean, light-tasting cháo responds well to fatty, salty, spicy, herbal enhancements. In addition to (or instead of) garnishing your porridge with green onion and pepper, consider the following, and feel free to mix and match. Try crisp chopped bacon, a fried or soft-boiled egg, and maybe chopped kimchi for punch. Add fried onions or shallots, and coarsely chopped fresh cilantro, mint, or basil. You can also crack a raw egg into the bowl before ladling in the hot soup. Top with crumbled rice crackers and perhaps ribbons of Korean toasted seaweed snacks. Stir well before eating. Or drop 8 ounces of raw peeled shrimp into the soup as it heats. When the shrimp are pink and cooked through, ladle out the soup. Add slivered ginger and maybe some gim.
The soup will keep, covered, in the fridge for up to 3 days and in the freezer for up to 1 month. Splash in water when reheating to loosen it up.
For a brown rice porridge, replace the cooked white rice with cooked brown rice and pulse it in a food processor or blender with the 2 cups water to break up the grains. Don’t add more water during the overnight soak. Cook as directed.
To make a mixed grain porridge, swap in ⅔ cup raw quinoa or hulled millet for 1 cup of the cooked rice.
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
In a 4-quart saucepan, combine the rice, chicken stock, and water. Cover and let sit overnight at cool room temperature (around or below 60°F) or in the refrigerator.
Step 2
The next morning, add the ginger and the white parts of the green onions to the pot. Partially cover (a small gap is perfect to minimize evaporation and avoid a boil over) and bring to vigorous simmer over high heat. Lower the heat and gently simmer, partially covered, for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as needed. When done, most of the liquid will have been absorbed (you’ll see little separation between the rice and liquid). Discard the ginger and green onions. Stir the pot, cover tightly, turn off the heat, and let rest for 10 minutes to finish thickening. The desired thickness of the porridge can vary according to taste; it can be rustic and thick, or elegant and thin, or somewhere in between. If needed, add a splash of water to thin or cook a little longer to thicken. Taste and season with the salt.
Step 3
When ready to serve, reheat the porridge to a simmer, then ladle into individual bowls. Garnish with sliced green onions and pepper.
Recipe notes
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