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Not Really Son-of-a-Bitch Stew

I’m betting it took a strong stomach to handle what cowboys called son-of-a-bitch stew, a concoction that included cow innards, even, and especially, the guts. “A son-of-a-bitch might not have any brains and no heart, but if he ain’t got guts he ain’t a son-of-a bitch” is the old cowboy saying. Known as son-of-a-gun stew in polite company, the dish was standard chuck wagon fare and said to include everything from a young calf but “the hair, horns, and holler.” According to Come an’ Get It: The Story of the Old Cowboy Cook by the late western folklorist Ramon F. Adams, the real thing did not include any vegetables save perhaps a “skunk egg,” cowboy slang for onion. I guess the only thing that my stew has in common with the cowboy favorite—and I know I am stretching things here—is my use of venison, just about as accessible to many of us Texans as the calves were to cowboys on the range. Everyone around here shoots deer, and many of my friends have freezers full of venison to prove it. If you don’t, feel free to substitute beef stewing meat. You can make this stew up to 3 days in advance, or freeze it for up to 3 weeks.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    8 to 10 servings

Ingredients

4 pounds venison stew meat, cut into bite-size cubes
2 (12-ounce) cans cola soda
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped yellow onion
2 tablespoons minced garlic (about 6 medium cloves)
1/2 cup silver tequila
2 cups red wine
4 cups beef stock
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed
5 stalks celery, chopped
6 medium carrots, chopped
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Preparation

  1. Place the venison in a large bowl and cover with cola. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, but no more than 8. In a large bowl, combine the flour, salt, pepper, and Cajun seasoning. Drain the meat and roll the pieces in the seasoned flour to coat. Heat the oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Brown the venison on all sides, working in batches so as not to crowd the meat. Transfer the browned meat to a large bowl and set aside. In the same skillet used to brown the meat, sauté the onion over medium heat until soft and translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and sauté another minute. Pour in the tequila, stirring up the browned bits that stick to the bottom of the pan. Stir in the venison, wine, stock, tomatoes with juice, potatoes, celery, carrots, and cinnamon. Bring the mixture to a simmer, cover, and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 45 minutes. Serve warm.

Pastry Queen Parties by Rebecca Rather and Alison Oresman. Copyright © 2009 Rebecca Rather and Alison Oresman. Published by Ten Speed Press. All Rights Reserved. A pastry chef, restaurateur, and cookbook author, native Texan Rebecca Rather has been proprietor of the Rather Sweet Bakery and Café since 1999. Open for breakfast and lunch daily, Rather Sweet has a fiercely loyal cadre of regulars who populate the café’s sunlit tables each day. In 2007, Rebecca opened her eponymous restaurant, serving dinner nightly, just a few blocks from the café.  Rebecca is the author of THE PASTRY QUEEN, and has been featured in Texas Monthly, Gourmet, Ladies Home Journal, Food & Wine, Southern Living, Chocolatier, Saveur, and O, The Oprah Magazine. When she isn’t in the bakery or on horseback, Rebecca enjoys the sweet life in Fredericksburg, where she tends to her beloved backyard garden and menagerie, and eagerly awaits visits from her college-age daughter, Frances. Alison Oresman has worked as a journalist for more than twenty years. She has written and edited for newspapers in Wyoming, Florida, and Washington State. As an entertainment editor for the Miami Herald, she oversaw the paper’s restaurant coverage and wrote a weekly column as a restaurant critic. After settling in Washington State, she also covered restaurants in the greater Seattle area as a critic with a weekly column. A dedicated home baker, Alison is often in the kitchen when she isn't writing. Alison lives in Bellevue, Washington, with her husband, Warren, and their children, Danny and Callie.
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