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Green Tomato Macaroni and Cheese

Cowboy nicknames for their cattle-drive cooks—biscuit shooter, dough puncher, and dough belly—suggest how important sourdough biscuits were to hungry, range-riding wranglers. No self-respecting chuck wagon cook traveled without a dough keg for his prized sourdough starter, the fermented yeast needed to make sourdough biscuits. I covered this macaroni and cheese with a generous blanket of buttered sourdough breadcrumbs in honor of chuck wagon cooks of the past. The rest has little to do with old-time chuck wagon cooking, but I don’t know a modern cowboy or anyone else who would turn down a bubbling pan of freshly baked mac and cheese.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 8

Ingredients

1 pound cavatappi (a curly macaroni) or your choice of pasta
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 cups hot whole milk
2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce
1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
2 cups shredded chipotle Cheddar cheese (preferably Cabot), about 8 ounces
3 cups shredded extra-sharp Cheddar cheese (about 12 ounces)
3 cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese (about 12 ounces)
10 green tomatoes (4 to 5 pounds), cored and thinly sliced
2 cups sourdough breadcrumbs (see Tip below)

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 by 13-inch pan or casserole dish of similar capacity with cooking spray.

    Step 2

    In a large pot, cook the pasta in plenty of hot water according to package directions, but remove it a few minutes earlier than suggested so it doesn’t turn mushy when baked later. Drain the cooked pasta in a colander and hold under cold running water to stop it from cooking further. Set aside.

    Step 3

    In a large saucepan set over medium heat, melt 1/2 cup of the butter. Add the flour, stirring constantly until the mixture is smooth and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Slowly pour in the milk, whisking constantly until thick, about 2 minutes. Stir in the Tabasco, dry mustard, salt, and white pepper. Stir in the cheeses and cook until they are completely melted. Spoon half the cooked pasta into the prepared pan. Cover with half the cheese sauce. Arrange a single layer of sliced tomatoes on top. Spoon the remainder of the pasta on top; pour on the remainder of the cheese sauce. Top with a second layer of sliced tomatoes.

    Step 4

    In a large skillet set over medium heat, melt the remaining 1/4 cup butter. Stir in the breadcrumbs and cook until the crumbs are evenly coated with butter. Spoon the crumbs evenly over the top of the tomatoes. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the crumbs have turned golden and the casserole is bubbling. Serve hot.

  2. do it early

    Step 5

    The casserole can be assembled a day in advance, covered, and refrigerated. Make the breadcrumbs, too, but don’t add them to the casserole until ready to bake and serve. Bake just before serving. Add extra baking time if the casserole goes from refrigerator to oven.

  3. tip

    Step 6

    It’s easy to make homemade breadcrumbs: toast 3 or 4 slices of sourdough bread until golden brown. Let the toast cool for a few minutes. Tear the toast into small pieces and process into crumbs in a food processor or blender.

Pastry Queen Parties by Rebecca Rather and Alison Oresman. Copyright © 2009 Rebecca Rather and Alison Oresman. Published by Ten Speed Press. All Rights Reserved. A pastry chef, restaurateur, and cookbook author, native Texan Rebecca Rather has been proprietor of the Rather Sweet Bakery and Café since 1999. Open for breakfast and lunch daily, Rather Sweet has a fiercely loyal cadre of regulars who populate the café’s sunlit tables each day. In 2007, Rebecca opened her eponymous restaurant, serving dinner nightly, just a few blocks from the café.  Rebecca is the author of THE PASTRY QUEEN, and has been featured in Texas Monthly, Gourmet, Ladies Home Journal, Food & Wine, Southern Living, Chocolatier, Saveur, and O, The Oprah Magazine. When she isn’t in the bakery or on horseback, Rebecca enjoys the sweet life in Fredericksburg, where she tends to her beloved backyard garden and menagerie, and eagerly awaits visits from her college-age daughter, Frances. Alison Oresman has worked as a journalist for more than twenty years. She has written and edited for newspapers in Wyoming, Florida, and Washington State. As an entertainment editor for the Miami Herald, she oversaw the paper’s restaurant coverage and wrote a weekly column as a restaurant critic. After settling in Washington State, she also covered restaurants in the greater Seattle area as a critic with a weekly column. A dedicated home baker, Alison is often in the kitchen when she isn't writing. Alison lives in Bellevue, Washington, with her husband, Warren, and their children, Danny and Callie.
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