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Chicken and Tasso Jambalaya

We moved from Georgia to Louisiana when I was a child and our family’s diet changed. Mama armed herself with spiral-bound copies of River Road Recipes (Junior League of Baton Rouge, 1959) and Talk about Good (Junior League of Lafayette, 1967) and started cooking. Soon, the cuisine of Louisiana—Mama’s Red Beans and Rice (page 160), Mama’s Shrimp Creole (page 131), and dishes similar to this jambalaya—quickly became as familiar and comfortable as Meme’s Old-fashioned Butter Beans (page 179) and her fried chicken (page 106). According to Louisiana Entertains (another regional cookbook), jambalaya is a descendent of paella, brought to New Orleans by the Spanish. The name derives from jamón, or ham, but colloquially, the term means “clean up the kitchen.” The dish is a delicious way to use leftovers so they don’t go to waste. I have seen both shrimp and chicken versions, but all jambalayas contain ham. Tasso, often referred to as Cajun ham, is smoked and very spicy with a peppery crust. This version uses boneless, skinless chicken breasts for a very simple and quick preparation. I also suggest using thighs, which are not as lean, but are less likely to dry out.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 4 to 6

Ingredients

1 tablespoon canola oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 pound chopped tasso or other smoked ham
2 (8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, or 3 boneless, skinless thighs, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 tablespoon Homemade Creole Seasoning (page 287)
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
1/2 green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
1 clove garlic, very finely chopped
1 1/2 cups long-grain rice
1 (4-ounce) can tomato sauce
2 1/2 cups chicken stock (page 227) or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In a large, ovenproof skillet, heat the oil and butter over high heat until shimmering. Add the tasso and cook until the meat starts to brown and render fat, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken and sprinkle over the Creole seasoning. (If using tasso, go easy on the spice, otherwise it may be too hot.) Continue cooking over high heat until the chicken is just beginning to color, about 3 minutes. Remove the meat to a plate.

    Step 2

    Add the onion, celery, and bell pepper to the residual oil in the skillet. Cook until the vegetables start to color, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the rice and stir to coat. Stir in the tomato sauce and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Transfer to the oven and bake, uncovered, stirring once, until the rice is tender, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove from the oven to a rack to cool slightly. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Cover of Bon Appetit, Yall by Virginia Willis featuring a serving of corn souffle.
From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.
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