This is an early signature dish of my colleague Jonathan Waxman, who has been at the center of the contemporary American food scene since the early 1970s, when he worked at Chez Panisse in Berkeley and at Michael's in Los Angeles. Waxman now presides over Barbuto—he's "the bearded one"—in the far west Greenwich Village, where all- American inclinations meet simple Italian cooking, frequently in the wood- burning oven. Jonathan's cooking has always been defined by its clarity; there are times when I wonder how he has managed to make something as simple as a roasted chicken or a plate of beets seem so special. Top-quality ingredients in season and vigilant preparations are the answers—what I strive for in my own cooking. This dish is a classic example of the early wave of what was known as the New American Cooking—a movement, if not a revolution, now forty years old and counting. It also demonstrates that a new, even trendy, dish can endure and become a classic—if it has integrity. Nevertheless, you can improvise here. Change the herbs according to what you've got, and the oils for the dressing.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 4
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Step 2
Cut the tomatoes in half horizontally.
Step 3
Mix the goat cheese with the herbs and shape the mixture into four 2- inch cakes and chill them for 30 minutes or so. Season the bread crumbs with salt and pepper to taste. Beat the egg with a pinch of salt. Carefully dip the goat cheese cakes into the egg, then into the bread crumbs to coat lightly. Place the cakes on a buttered cookie sheet and bake them until golden brown, about 8 minutes, or brown them in an oiled heavy skillet over medium- high heat. Whisk together the oils and lemon juice and toss with the tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange the dressed tomatoes on a serving platter. Place the baked goat cheese cakes on the tomatoes, garnish with the chervil, and serve.
