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Strawberry-Rhubarb Consommé

Maybe I like rhubarb so much because I started eating it when I was a child; my mother’s strawberry-rhubarb pie is one of my earliest memories. And I love summer fruit soups; that’s something I learned from François Payard. So this combination is a natural for me. You need just the pod from the vanilla bean for this dessert, so if you have saved some used pods, now is the time to recycle. And you will need a whipped cream charger (see page 279) for the foam. You will have leftover consommé (which you can freeze) and foam; you simply can’t successfully foam less liquid than is in the recipe.

Cooks' Note

Elderflower cordial is available at gourmet markets and online from English Delights.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 4 on it¿s own or 8 as part of fourplay

Ingredients

For the Rhubarb Foam

2 pounds (900g) very ripe rhubarb
Grenadine
2 teaspoons powdered gelatin (or 9g sheet gelatin; see page 276)

For the Consommé

1/2 orange
1/2 lemon
Dried pod from 1/2 scraped vanilla bean
1/2 stalk fresh lemongrass, trimmed, crushed, and chopped
6 ounces (170g) fresh strawberries, hulled and halved
1 1/2 pounds (680g) ripe rhubarb, chopped
1/3 cup (85g) elderflower cordial (see Note)
1/2 cup (120g) Moscato d’Asti
1/2 cup (120g) water
1 tablespoon (15g) grenadine
(makes 2 1/2 cups)

For the Basil Tapioca

4 cups (960g) water
1/3 cup (30g) small (or large) pearl tapioca
1 1/4 cups (350g) Simple Syrup (page 184)
Packed 1/2 cup (25g) fresh basil leaves
(makes about 1 cup)

To Serve

Fresh thai basil leaves, thinly sliced (optional)

Preparation

  1. For the Rhubarb Foam

    Step 1

    Cut the rhubarb into small pieces and put it through a juicer. Rhubarb fibers can clog the juicer, so you may need to clean it about halfway through this process. Strain the juice and measure out 2 cups. Adjust the color with grenadine to make it a light pink.

    Step 2

    Pour about 1/2 cup of the juice into a small glass bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over the surface. Let it sit for about 1 minute, then microwave for 45 seconds or heat gently in a saucepan until melted. Pour into the rest of the rhubarb juice and stir for about 1 minute.

    Step 3

    Pour into a whipped cream maker and screw on a fresh N2O charger. Shake vigorously for about 2 minutes. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, shaking vigorously every 30 minutes or so, as the gelatin sets, or for up to 1 week.

  2. For the Consommé

    Step 4

    Remove the zest from the orange and lemon with a vegetable peeler. Tie the zest in cheesecloth along with the vanilla pod and lemongrass. Juice the orange and lemon. Strain the juices and reserve.

    Step 5

    Put the strawberries, rhubarb, elderflower cordial, Moscato d’Asti, water, and grenadine in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the cheesecloth sachet, reduce the heat, and simmer the soup for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

    Step 6

    Remove the sachet and liquefy the soup with an immersion blender. Strain through a fine strainer set over a bowl or pitcher (discard the solids). Whisk in the orange and lemon juices and chill thoroughly before serving or for up to 3 days.

  3. For the Basil Tapioca

    Step 7

    Bring 2 cups of the water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the tapioca and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes. The tapioca will have lost about half its opacity. Drain and rinse the tapioca. Bring the remaining 2 cups water to a boil and add the tapioca. Cook until the tapioca has lost all its opacity, another 2 to 3 minutes. Large pearls will take longer to cook. Drain, and rinse well in cold water to remove the excess starch. Put the tapioca in a container with 1 cup of the simple syrup and refrigerate until you’re ready to serve.

    Step 8

    Blanch the basil in boiling water for 15 seconds. Drain, refresh in ice water, and drain again. Squeeze out all of the water and put the basil in a blender. Add the remaining 1/4 cup simple syrup and blend on high for at least 1 minute, to make a smooth puree. Line a strainer with a few layers of cheesecloth. Strain the basil syrup (discard the solids) and refrigerate until you’re ready to serve or for up to 1 week.

  4. To Serve

    Step 9

    Drain the tapioca. Stir the basil syrup into the tapioca and add a spoonful to a small glass. Pour in the consommé over the back of a spoon to help keep the layers distinct. Shake the whipped cream maker and top the glass with a shot of rhubarb foam. Sprinkle with sliced basil, if desired. Repeat for each serving.

  5. make it simpler

    Step 10

    You could serve the consommé without the basil tapioca and foam, just with the Thai basil.

Reprinted with permission from Dessert Fourplay: Sweet Quartets from a Four-Star Pastry Chef by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Copyright © 2008 by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Published by Crown Publishing. All Rights Reserved. Johnny Iuzzini,, executive pastry chef of the world-renowned Jean Georges restaurant in New York City, won the award for Outstanding Pastry Chef from the James Beard Foundation in 2006. This is his first book. Roy Finamore, a publishing veteran of more than thirty years, has worked with many bestselling cookbook authors. He is the author of three books: One Potato, Two Potato; Tasty, which won a James Beard Foundation award; and Fish Without a Doubt.__
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