Esqueixada de Montaña (Cured Trout With Tomato, Black Olive, and Onion)
Esqueixar means “to shred” and that’s what’s done to salt cod in this traditional Catalonian cold dish. I’m using trout instead, which is as prevalent in Asheville as it is in Spain. For the restaurant, we get fresh trout delivered the day it is caught and serve it raw. Since I’m not sure everyone can get trout that fresh, I lightly cure it here to retain its silky tenderness. (Note that the trout is cured, not cooked, if you’re concerned about consuming raw fish.) Since the fillets aren’t as flaky as cod, they don’t get shredded. In thin slices, though, they capture the spirit of esqueixada.
Recipe information
Yield
Serves 4 as a main dish or 8 as a small plate
Ingredients
For the lemon vinaigrette:
For the grated, fresh tomatoes:
For the cured trout:
For the salad:
Preparation
To make the lemon vinaigrette:
Step 1
To make the vinaigrette, zest the lemon into the bowl of a food processor. Trim the top and bottom of the lemon, then cut off the peel and pith. Holding the lemon flesh over the food processor bowl, cut out the segments by slicing between the membranes. Squeeze any juice remaining in the membrane, then squeeze any juice in the peel and pith. Add the honey and salt to the bowl and process. With the machine running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream until emulsified. The vinaigrette can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature and shake well before using.
To make the grated fresh tomatoes:
Step 2
Cut the tomatoes in half through their equators.
Step 3
Set a box grater over a large bowl. Grate the cut sides of the tomatoes on the large holes until only the skin remains; discard the skins. Stir in the garlic. Cut the rosemary sprig in half, then bruise the sprigs by gently pounding with the dull edge of a knife and add to the tomato mixture. Whisk in the salt and oil. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight for the flavors to meld.
To make the cured trout:
Step 4
Find a container or shallow dish just large enough to hold the fillets snugly in a single layer. Line the container with plastic wrap with overhang on all sides. Place the fillets in the plastic wrap, skin side down.
Step 5
Pour the gin on top. Mix the juniper, pepper- corns, salt, and sugar in a small bowl, then spread over the fillets to evenly coat. Cover with the plastic wrap overhang and then cover the whole container with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 4 hours.
Step 6
Unwrap the trout, rinse off the cure under cold water, and pat dry. Cut the trout off the skin; discard the skin. Cut the fillets into 1/8-inch-thick slices. Remove the rosemary from the tomatoes and spread the tomatoes on a serving platter.
Step 7
Top with the trout slices. Drizzle the lemon vinaigrette on top, then sprinkle with the onion and olives. Zest the lemon directly on top and serve immediately.
Recipe notes
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