Bucatini and Clams with Fennel, White Wine, and Thyme Breadcrumbs
My very first chef position was at a twenty-eight-seat restaurant called Alloro, located in Boston’s very Italian North End. At that point in my career, my cooking experience was rooted mostly in French cuisine, but the owner didn’t seem to mind. When I asked him if I had to cook strictly Italian food, his answer was, “No, no, no! Cook whatever you want. We’ll just give it an Italian name.” The French bistro classic salmon with beluga lentils and red wine butter was abbreviated to “Salmone” on the menu, and other quasi-French dishes were likewise masked under short Italian names. The pasta dishes I made at Alloro also strayed from Italian tradition. For my version of the classic spaghetti alle vongole, I added generous amounts of onion, fennel, and olive oil, and sprinkled breadcrumbs toasted with thyme on top. I also finished the sauce with a spot of butter (the French influence again), which thickened and enriched it. In theory, I’m sure my version of spaghetti with clams would outrage purists in both the Italian and the French camps, but one bite ought to be enough to convince them they have lots to learn from each other. Though you might not think of it as such, the water in which you cook pasta is a valuable ingredient, in virtually any pasta recipe. Do your noodles seem a little dry once you’ve tossed them in the sauce? Rather than correcting the problem with stock (which can alter the flavor balance) or oil (which can add greasiness), add a little pasta water instead. Not only will it moisten the dish, but the starch in it (left from the cooking of the pasta) will also help bind the sauce to the noodles. Try it out; it works.
This pasta needs to be “made to order.” Although you can grind and toast your breadcrumbs, dice your vegetables, and clean the clams ahead of time, most of the work is at the last minute.<br/><br/>To clean the clams, soak them in cold water for 10 minutes, tossing them every few minutes or so. If the clams are very sandy, add a small handful of cornmeal or a splash of milk to the water, to encourage them to spit out the sand.<br/><br/>The pot you choose for this dish needs to be large enough to accommodate the clams and the noodles. If you don’t have one large enough, make this dish in two pots, splitting the ingredients accordingly.
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Step 2
Toss the breadcrumbs with 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 tablespoon thyme. Spread them on a baking sheet, and toast in the oven 8 to 10 minutes, stirring once or twice, until golden brown.
Step 3
Put a large pot of heavily salted water on to boil.
Step 4
Heat a very large sauté pan or Dutch oven over high heat for 2 minutes. Pour in the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil, swirl the pan, and add the rosemary sprig and the chiles, crumbled with your hands. Let them sizzle in the oil about a minute or so, turn the heat down to medium, and add the onion, fennel, bay leaves, and remaining tablespoon thyme. Season with 2 teaspoons kosher salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
Step 5
Cook 3 minutes over medium heat, stirring often. Add the garlic, and continue cooking another 3 to 4 minutes, until the vegetables are translucent and soft.
Step 6
Drop the pasta in the rapidly boiling water.
Step 7
Add the clams to the vegetables and toss to coat well. Add the wine and cover the pot. Cook until the clams open, about 5 minutes or so. (After a couple of minutes, lift the lid, gently stir the clams to help distribute the heat, and re-cover the pan.) When all the clams have opened, remove the pan from the heat and use a slotted spoon to transfer the clams to a roasting pan or baking sheet. when they’re cool enough to handle, take half of the clams out of their shells and set aside. (If you like, you can skip this step and serve all the clams in their shells.) Discard any unopened clams.
Step 8
When the pasta is al dente, reserve 1 cup of the cooking water, and then drain the pasta.
Step 9
Return the pan to medium-high heat, and add the pasta to the vegetables, tossing the noodles well. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, to reduce the juices and coat the pasta. If the noodles seem dry, add some of the reserved pasta water. Add the butter, a big squeeze of lemon juice, the sliced chile, shucked clams, parsley, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Toss well and taste for seasoning.
Step 10
Arrange the pasta on a large warm platter and spoon the clams still in their shells over the noodles. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs on top.
Note
Step 11
This pasta needs to be “made to order.” Although you can grind and toast your breadcrumbs, dice your vegetables, and clean the clams ahead of time, most of the work is at the last minute.
Step 12
To clean the clams, soak them in cold water for 10 minutes, tossing them every few minutes or so. If the clams are very sandy, add a small handful of cornmeal or a splash of milk to the water, to encourage them to spit out the sand.
Step 13
The pot you choose for this dish needs to be large enough to accommodate the clams and the noodles. If you don’t have one large enough, make this dish in two pots, splitting the ingredients accordingly.
