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Braised Beef Brisket with Beluga Lentils, Horseradish Cream, and Salsa Verde

When I was chef de cuisine at Campanile, I had to make brisket every Friday for the weekend brunch menu. Pounds and pounds of it passed through the hot ovens and sat resting on the counter before it was put away in the refrigerator. Sometimes I’d hear someone whisper, “Hide the brisket, she’s coming.” Nancy Silverton, the owner, would suddenly appear from around the corner, fingers poised to pilfer the fatty top layer from the roast. It was so rich and addictive, we couldn’t blame her. When you buy your brisket, don’t let your butcher cut away that top fatty layer; it adds essential flavor and keeps the brisket from drying out. Look for a brisket sold “point-on”—that triangular end is the most tender and flavorful part of the meat. You don’t have to serve both sauces with the brisket, but I think it’s super delicious that way. One bite gets an herby, acidic note of salsa verde and the next one rewards you with a fiesty horseradish cream. When I made this dish at home, my husband, brother-in-law, and best friend managed to polish off the entire 6-pound brisket by themselves while watching a single basketball game. I was shocked. It’s always better to make more brisket rather than less. And even if your friends don’t have as big appetites as mine do, you’ll be happy to have the leftovers for sandwiches or hash the next day.

Ingredients

6 pounds whole beef brisket, with 1/2-inch top layer of fat
3 tablespoons thyme leaves
2 fresh bay leaves, thinly sliced, or 2 dry, crumbled
10 cloves garlic, smashed
3 chiles de ĂĄrbol, crumbled with your hands
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cracked black pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions
3 medium carrots, peeled
1 stalk celery
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
3 cups dark beer, such as Guinness or Samuel Smith
4 cups beef stock, or more if needed
Beluga lentils (recipe follows)
Salsa verde (see page 132)
Sauteéd rapini with garlic and chile (recipe follows)
1 recipe horseradish cream (see page 303)
Kosher salt

Beluga Lentils

1 1/2 cups beluga lentils (see Sources)
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup diced white onion
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
1 chile de ĂĄrbol
1/4 cup red wine
3 sprigs basil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sautéed Rapini with Garlic and Chile

1 1/2 pounds rapini, ends trimmed
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 shallots, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
1 chile de ĂĄrbol, thinly sliced on the diagonal
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Place the brisket in a large shallow dish, and rub the thyme, bay leaves, garlic, chiles, and cracked black pepper onto both sides of it, coating the meat well. Cover, and refrigerate overnight.

    Step 2

    Take the brisket out of the refrigerator 1 hour before cooking to bring it to room temperature. After 30 minutes, season the meat with 2 tablespoons salt.

    Step 3

    Preheat the oven to 325°F.

    Step 4

    Heat a large heavy-bottomed sautĂ© pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil and wait 1 minute. Place the brisket in the pan (reserving the garlic and chile). Sear the meat on both sides, about 8 minutes per side, until it’s deep golden brown. You will need to sear a portion of the meat at a time, because the entire brisket probably won’t fit in your pan. To do this, leave one end of the brisket hanging off the edge of the pan, and then move that end into the pan when the other part is well seared. Once both sides are well browned, transfer the brisket to a roasting pan or Dutch oven that’s big enough to accommodate the entire piece of meat.

    Step 5

    Cut the onions in half through the root end and peel them. Cut them into 1-inch-thick wedges, leaving the root end intact. Cut the carrots and celery into thirds. Return the original brisket pan to the stove over medium-high heat. Add the vegetables to the pan, and cook 8 to 10 minutes, until they’re caramelized. Stir often with a wooden spoon, scraping up all the crusty bits. Add the reserved garlic and chiles and cook a few more minutes.

    Step 6

    Turn off the heat (so that the liquids won’t evaporate immediately), and add the balsamic vinegar, then the beer. Turn the heat back up to medium-high and reduce the beer by a quarter. Add the beef stock and bring the stock to a boil over high heat. Use a slotted spoon to scoop out most of the vegetables and place them under and around the brisket. Pour the hot stock over the meat. It should come just to the top of the brisket. Add more stock if necessary. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and a tight-fitting lid if you have one. Braise in the oven 5 to 6 hours.

    Step 7

    To check for doneness, carefully remove the lid and foil, watching out for the hot steam. Test the meat by inserting a fork into it; if the fork slides in easily, then the brisket is done.

    Step 8

    Let the brisket cool in its juices for 30 minutes. Carefully transfer it to a baking sheet, and chill completely.

    Step 9

    Strain the braising juices into a saucepan, pressing down on the vegetables with a ladle to extract all the liquid. Skim the fat from the braising juices and chill. (Or, slice the warm brisket if you want to serve right away.)

    Step 10

    When you are ready to serve, preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the cold brisket against the grain into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Lay the slices in two large roasting pans (or equivalent). Heat the braising juices and pour some over the meat, just to cover. Cook about 20 minutes until the meat is hot and caramelized and crispy on top.

    Step 11

    Spoon the hot beluga lentils onto a large warm platter, and arrange the brisket on top. Spoon some of the braising juices over the meat, and drizzle some of the salsa verde on top. Serve the remaining salsa verde, the sautéed rapini, horseradish cream, and any extra braising juices on the side.

  2. Beluga Lentils

    Step 12

    Rinse the lentils, and pick through them to remove any small stones.

    Step 13

    Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil and wait a minute. Add the onion, thyme, chile, 1 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Cook the onion, stirring often, until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes.

    Step 14

    Add the lentils and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook about 2 minutes, stirring to coat the lentils in the oil and vegetables. Reduce the heat to low, and add the wine. Quickly add 6 cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat, and simmer 25 to 30 minutes, until the lentils are tender.

    Step 15

    Strain the lentils over a bowl. Toss them with the remaining 6 tablespoons olive oil, the basil sprigs, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/3 cup of the cooking liquid. (Add more of the liquid if the lentils seem dry.) Taste for seasoning.

  3. Sautéed Rapini with Garlic and Chile

    Step 16

    Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil.

    Step 17

    Blanch the rapini a couple of minutes in the rapidly boiling water, until just tender and al dente. Drain, and cool on a platter or baking sheet.

    Step 18

    Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Pour in 1/4 cup olive oil and add the garlic, shallots, thyme, and chile. Cook a few minutes, until the shallots are translucent. Add the rapini and 1 teaspoon salt. Stir well, coating the rapini with the other ingredients and bathing it in the oil. Drizzle the remaining 1/4 cup oil over the rapini, and sauté 2 minutes, tossing often. Sprinkle another teaspoon salt and a pinch of black pepper over the rapini, toss, and taste for seasoning.

  4. Note

    Step 19

    I find that the easiest (and most delicious) way to prepare brisket is to braise it a day or two ahead. Then slice it when it’s cold and reheat it in its juices. The increased surface area of exposed meat means more chance for crispy caramelization! If you want to skip this step, you can slice the warm brisket after it has rested for about 15 minutes.

Sunday Suppers at Lucques [by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.. Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz. Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles. ](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)
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