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Roasted Sweet Potatoes With Triple-Cream Cheese

Roasted Sweet Potatoes With Triplecream Cheese plated in a blue rimmed bowl
Photograph by Gerard + Belevender

Years ago chef John Yelinek accidentally left a batch of sweet potatoes baking in the back of a hot oven. Now this is his favorite way of getting crispy, charred skins and custardy interiors. At Ladder 4 Wine Bar in Detroit, MI—one of our Best New Restaurants of 2023—the soft sweet potatoes serve as a base for spiced seeds and heaps of cheese.

At home, a moderate hour-long roast gets the job done (but if you happen to “forget” about them for another hour, all the better). Scrub, but don’t pierce—and definitely don’t peel—the sweet potato skins; they act as an incubator, allowing the insides to transform from rock hard to yieldingly gooey.

The pumpkin seed dukkah is meant to act as a savory granola. Keep it coarse and barely broken down for optimal textural contrast. To switch things up, use a soft cheese like Taleggio or stracciatella (as they do at the restaurant) in place of the triple-cream.

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What you’ll need

Recipe information

  • Total Time

    1 hour 10 minutes

  • Yield

    4 servings

Ingredients

2 lb. medium sweet potatoes (about 6), scrubbed
1 Tbsp. coriander seeds
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. fennel seeds
½ cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
2 tsp. raw sugar
2 tsp. smoked paprika
1 tsp. chile-lime seasoning (preferably Tajín)
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more
6 oz. triple-cream cheese (such as Saint André or Délice de Bourgogne), room temperature, cut into 1" pieces
2 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses
1 tsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
Torn tender herbs (such as parsley, dill, and/or cilantro; for serving)
Flaky sea salt

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 450°. Roast 2 lb. medium sweet potatoes (about 6), scrubbed, on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet until very tender, 60–70 minutes.

    Step 2

    Meanwhile, toast 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds, 1 tsp. cumin seeds, and 1 tsp. fennel seeds in a dry small skillet over medium heat, shaking pan often, until fragrant and slightly darkened, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a small food processor and pulse until seeds are very coarsely ground (you can also do this with a mortar and pestle).

    Step 3

    Toast ½ cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas) in same skillet over medium heat, shaking pan often, until slightly darkened and starting to pop, about 4 minutes. Transfer to food processor and pulse until pumpkin seeds are very coarsely ground. Transfer seed mixture to a medium bowl and add 2 tsp. raw sugar, 2 tsp. smoked paprika, 1 tsp. chile-lime seasoning, 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Mix dukkah to combine.

    Step 4

    Transfer sweet potatoes to a platter, split lengthwise with a small knife, and open up like a book. Using a fork, lightly mash flesh, making sure to keep skins intact; season lightly with kosher salt. Dot evenly with 6 oz. triple-cream cheese, room temperature, cut into 1" pieces (it will begin to melt). Stir 2 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses and 1 tsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar in a small bowl; drizzle over potatoes. Spoon dukkah over (use all of it), top with torn tender herbs (such as parsley, dill, and/or cilantro), and drizzle with oil. Season with flaky sea salt.

    Do Ahead: Dukkah can be made 1 week ahead. Store airtight at room temperature. Stir to break up any clumps before using.

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