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Steamed Egg Custard with Blue Crab and Flowering Chives

3.8

(2)

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Steamed Egg Custard with Blue Crab and Flowering ChivesJohn Kernick

The spirit of Japan comes through in this dish: It is lovely to behold and has a delicate, light quality, yet the extraordinary flavors will seize your attention with the culinary equivalent of surround sound.

Cooks' note:

Dashi can be made 1 day ahead and chilled.

Recipe information

  • Total Time

    40 min

  • Yield

    Makes 8 (first course) servings

Ingredients

For dashi:

3 large dried Chinese black mushrooms
2 1/3 cups water
1 (4-inch) piece kombu (dried kelp)
2 tablespoons bonito flakes

For custard:

6 large eggs
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine
1 1/2 teaspoons dry Oloroso Sherry
1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon Asian sesame oil

For crab topping:

18 flowering Chinese chives, tough bottoms discarded
1/2 pound jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over
1/2 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
1/4 teaspoon sugar
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine
1 tablespoon dry Oloroso Sherry
Pinch of white pepper
Equipment: 8 (4- to 5-ounce) bowls or ramekins

Preparation

  1. Make dashi:

    Step 1

    Simmer mushrooms in water in a small saucepan 5 minutes, then let steep off heat 10 minutes. Add kombu and return just to a simmer. Turn off heat and add bonito flakes, then let steep 10 minutes. Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl or glass measure, discarding solids. Cool dashi to room temperature.

  2. Make custard:

    Step 2

    Beat eggs and 1 1/2 cups cooled dashi in a medium bowl, then whisk in remaining custard ingredients.

    Step 3

    Divide among bowls. Cover each tightly with foil and arrange in a steamer rack. Steam, covered, over simmering water until just barely set in center, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove pot from heat and let stand, covered, 2 to 3 minutes. (Custard will continue to set.)

  3. Prepare crab topping while custard steams:

    Step 4

    Blanch chives in a medium pot of boiling salted water 30 seconds, then transfer to an ice bath to stop cooking. Pat chives dry. Cut into 3/4-inch pieces and gently combine with crab and remaining ingredients.

    Step 5

    Top warm custards with crab mixture.

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