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Mama’s Angel Food Cake with Bourbon Crème Anglaise

It is necessary to sift the flour before measuring it for this cake. This is an anomaly; if flour is sifted at all these days (not that common anymore), most baking recipes call for sifting after it is measured. Here, the flour is sifted once before measuring, then an additional four times with the sugar to prepare this batter. It may seem like overkill, but it is completely necessary to achieve the traditional light-as-air texture of angel food cake. There is an unusual implement for cutting these delicate cakes found in many silver chests throughout the South. These old-fashioned rakelike cutters typically have a long, slightly offset handle with 3- to 4-inch-long tines that actually split, rather than cut, the cake. They can still be found online and in gourmet catalogs.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    makes one 10-inch cake

Ingredients

1 1/4 cups sifted cake flour (not self-rising)
1 1/2 cups sugar
12 large egg whites, at room temperature
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 1/2 teaspoons cream of tartar
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
Bourbon Crème Anglaise (recipe follows)

Bourbon Creme Anglaise:

2 cups whole milk
6 large egg yolks
1/4 cup sugar
Pinch of fine sea salt
1 tablespoon bourbon
(makes 3 cups)

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Position an oven rack in the lower part of the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Sift the flour with 3/4 cup of the sugar. Re-sift three times. Set aside.

    Step 2

    To prepare the batter, in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the whisk, place the egg whites, salt, and cream of tartar. Whisk on medium speed until foamy. Add the vanilla-bean seeds and almond extract. With the mixer on medium speed, add the remaining 3/4 cup of sugar, a little at a time, until the whites are glossy and hold stiff peaks when the whisk is lifted. Sift enough of the flour mixture in to dust the top of the foam. Using a spatula, fold in gently. Continue until all of the flour mixture is incorporated.

    Step 3

    Gently spoon the batter into an ungreased 10-inch tube pan. With a spatula or a knife, using a circular motion, cut through the batter twice to eliminate any large pockets of air. Smooth the top to remove any large peaks.

    Step 4

    Bake until golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Invert the pan over a bottle (such as a 2-liter soda bottle or wine bottle) and let rest until completely cooled, about 2 hours.

    Step 5

    To serve, set upright, and using a butter knife or long spatula, loosen the cake from the sides of the pan. Invert onto a serving plate. Slice with a serrated knife or angel food cake cutter. Serve drizzled with crème anglaise.

    Step 6

    The cake will keep in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

  2. Bourbon Creme Anglaise:

    Step 7

    Make an ice bath by filling a large bowl halfway with ice cubes and water.

    Step 8

    In a saucepan, bring the milk almost to a boil over medium heat. In a second saucepan, blend together the egg yolks, sugar, and salt with a wooden spoon until thick and light (be careful not to make the mixture foamy). Mix in half the hot milk, then transfer the mixture to the other saucepan with the remaining milk and blend. Add the bourbon.

    Step 9

    Decrease the heat to low and simmer gently, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Continue stirring the custard until thick enough to coat the back of the spoon and the mixture reaches 180°F on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from the heat.

    Step 10

    Set a sieve over a large, clean bowl and pass the custard through the sieve.

    Step 11

    Place the bowl in the ice bath, and stir the custard until it has completely cooled. Lay a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the custard to prevent a skin from forming. Store the custard in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.

Cover of Bon Appetit, Yall by Virginia Willis featuring a serving of corn souffle.
From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.
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