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Kimchi

Kimchi, the world’s best-known Korean ingredient, generally describes pickled vegetables, though cabbage is the most common choice. Originally a basic salt pickle, chiles were introduced in the sixteenth century, followed soon thereafter by fish or shrimp paste. Regional influences determine the level of pungency, with warmer regions producing kimchi heavily seasoned with chile powder and anchovy paste. Some take to kimchi immediately; for others it is an acquired taste. For information on nam pla (Thai fish sauce), see page 500. If you love kimchi, you’ll enjoy making this version. Even though it’s quick, the results will be as good as that found at most restaurants and better than almost any version you’ve bought in jars. Kept refrigerated, it will last for about a week. Dried salted shrimp are inexpensive and keep forever; you’ll find them at most Asian markets.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    makes 12 servings

Ingredients

1 head of green, Savoy, or Napa cabbage, about 2 pounds, separated into leaves
1/2 cup coarse salt, more or less
20 scallions, including most of the greens, trimmed and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon hot red pepper flakes (or use Korean co chu cara, chile powder), or to taste
1/4 cup nam pla
1/4 cup minced garlic
2 tablespoons peeled and minced or grated fresh ginger
1/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons dried salted shrimp, optional

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Layer the cabbage leaves in a colander, sprinkling a little salt between layers. Let sit over a bowl for at least 2 hours. When the cabbage is wilted, rinse it. Spin it dry in a salad spinner.

    Step 2

    Use a wooden spoon to mix together the scallions, red pepper, nam pla, garlic, ginger, sugar, and salted shrimp. Roughly chop the cabbage and toss with the spice mixture. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to a week; it will become stronger every day.

  2. Chongak Kimchi

    Step 3

    Substitute 3 pounds Korean white radish (or daikon) for the cabbage. Trim and peel the radish, then cut into 1-inch cubes. Proceed as directed.

  3. Pa Kimchi

    Step 4

    Omit the cabbage. Use about 30 scallions. Trim the scallions if you like (I’ve seen them made with and without their roots), but do not chop them. Treat them as you would the cabbage in step 1. In step 2, use kitchen string to tie the scallions together in bunches of 5. Put the bundles in a container that will hold them snugly and pour the spice mixture over them. Proceed as directed.

The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved. MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.
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