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Big Queer Cold Noodles

5.0

(2)

Bowl of noodles with the topping placed orderly to represent a pride flag.
Photograph by Emma Fishman, food styling by Judy Kim.

Cold noodles are a necessity for summer eating, especially in Taiwan. You can find liang mian in food stands, 24/7 convenience stores, and home kitchens. It usually consists of thinly sliced fresh cucumbers, carrots, and egg ribbons nicely arranged on top of bouncy noodles, with a healthy scoop of sesame-vinegar sauce.

As a college student in Taiwan, I would often go to one particular hole-in-the-wall cold noodle shop for a late-night slurp after a long night of drinking. It wasn’t an explicitly queer establishment, but it was near the only lesbian bar in Taipei, and it provided a sense of queer community, which was rare in my daily life. This recipe is my tribute to the spaces in Taipei that host young queer folks like me, where I got to feel free and comfortable in my own skin while having affordable, delicious food.

In my attempt to re-create Taipei-style liang mian sauce with ingredients I can easily find in the States, I was able to make a version of the dish with peanut butter, Kong Yen black vinegar (or Worcestershire sauce), and a few other easily found pantry staples. Colorful summer produce and fresh ramen noodles tie it all together. These noodles have a special place in my heart and tummy, and it’s perfect for Pride parties all summer long.

This cool, refreshing dish is a perfect make-ahead candidate. Prep the sauce, cook the eggs, and slice your veg ahead of time, then boil and shock your noodles in ice water just before serving. —Jessie YuChen

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What you’ll need

Recipe information

  • Yield

    4 servings

Ingredients

3 large eggs
Kosher salt
3 tsp. vegetable oil
1 cup creamy peanut butter or tahini
¾ cup Taiwanese black vinegar (such as Kong Yen) or Worcestershire sauce
2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
1 Tbsp. demerara or raw sugar
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
20 oz. fresh lo mein or ramen noodles
1 red bell pepper, cut into matchsticks
1 small carrot, peeled, cut into matchsticks
3 Persian cucumbers, cut into matchsticks
¼ small head of red cabbage, thinly sliced
¼ cup unsalted roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
Cilantro leaves with tender stems and chili crisp (for serving)

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Whisk eggs in a medium bowl until no streaks remain; season with salt.

    Step 2

    Heat 1½ tsp. oil in medium nonstick skillet over medium-low. Pour half of eggs into skillet and swirl to coat bottom. Reduce heat to low, cover pan, and cook eggs until set and surface appears dry, about 3 minutes. Carefully slide onto a cutting board. Repeat process with remaining eggs and 1½ tsp. oil. Stack egg sheets, roll up tightly, and slice crosswise into thin strips.

    Step 3

    Whisk peanut butter, black vinegar, white vinegar, demerara sugar, soy sauce, garlic, and ½ cup water in a medium bowl until smooth. (The mixture will be stiff at first, but keep going. It will soon relax.)

    Step 4

    Cook noodles in a large pot of boiling water according to package directions. Transfer to a large bowl of ice water and let sit, swishing noodles occasionally, until cold, about 3 minutes.

    Step 5

    Drain noodles and divide among bowls. Top with some strips of egg and some bell pepper, carrot, cucumber, and cabbage. Pour ½ cup sauce over each bowl; top with peanuts and cilantro. Serve with chili crisp alongside.

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