Tongue with Capers and Cornichons
Because the Jews were a source of income to the Popes of Avignon until the Revolution, they were squeezed whenever money was needed. A story goes that in Carpentras, the home of the largest number of Jews in the thirteenth century, a 1276 agreement forced the Jews to deliver to the bishop’s table a prized delicacy, the tender tongue of all the animals that they slaughtered in the kosher manner. The Jewish tradition of smoking or pickling tongue is a perfect example of my definition of a culinary lag—using pickled tongue even when refrigeration makes it no longer necessary, and at a time when we focus on eating fresh foods without preservatives. But because these are traditional family recipes, people are hesitant to tamper with them. After tasting fresh tongue at Le Mas Tourteron (see page 92) just outside Gordes, I have always opted for fresh, because of its amazing flavor and texture. Including garlic and saffron adds a North African touch to this dish, which is often served at weddings and Bar Mitzvahs in North Africa.
Recipe information
Yield
8 to 10 servings
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the tongue, and simmer, covered, for about 20 minutes. Remove the tongue and discard the water. Rinse the pot.
Step 2
Pour fresh water into the same pot. Pierce the onion with the cloves, and add to the pot, along with the carrot, celery, leek, orange zest, 1 tablespoon of the white vinegar, the bay leaves, saffron, thyme, peppercorns, and salt. Lower the tongue into the pot, making sure the water almost covers the meat. Bring to a boil, and simmer, covered, for about 2 hours, depending on the weight of tongue, until it is tender when pierced with a knife. As it cooks, replenish the water as needed so the tongue remains almost covered.
Step 3
While the tongue cooks, heat the oil in a sauté pan. Add the flour, stirring, over low heat without browning for about 4 minutes. Strain in about 1 cup of the tongue-cooking water, whisk, and add the tomato, white wine, remaining tablespoon vinegar, capers, cornichons, and a little salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, and simmer for about 15 minutes over a low heat, until the sauce reduces a bit. Adjust the salt and pepper to taste.
Step 4
When the tongue is done, turn off the heat. When it is cool enough to handle, remove the tongue from the water, and peel the skin off with a sharp knife. Cut on the diagonal into slices about 1/4 inch thick, and arrange on a serving platter. Discard the vegetables or use for soup. Pour the sauce over the slices, and sprinkle parsley over all.
