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Sautéed Alaskan Black Cod with Endive and Hazelnuts

Black cod, despite its name, is not a true cod. Its other names—sablefish and butterfish—suit it better: its texture is as silky as sable, its flavor as rich as butter. I love the Japanese pairing of black cod and miso, but in this recipe, black cod gets a French treatment, a smothering with hazelnut brown butter. Ask your fishmonger where the black cod is from. It’s overfished in California and Oregon so look for black cod from Alaska, where the commercial fishing is better regulated. Black cod has a single row of bones that is very difficult to remove when the fish is raw. You can ask your fishmonger to remove the bones or cut them out yourself before cooking. Or just cook the fish bones and all; it’s easy to spot them and eat around them.

Ingredients

6 fillets black cod, 5 to 6 ounces each, bones removed if possible
1 lemon, zested
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons thyme leaves
1/4 cup sliced flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup blanched hazelnuts
6 Belgian endives
10 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Season the fish with the lemon zest, 1 tablespoon thyme, and 2 tablespoons parsley. Cover, and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.

    Step 2

    Remove the fish from the refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking, to bring it to room temperature.

    Step 3

    Preheat the oven to 375°F.

    Step 4

    Toast the hazelnuts on a baking sheet 10 to 12 minutes, until they’re golden brown and smell nutty. When the nuts have cooled, chop them coarsely.

    Step 5

    Remove any wilted or brown outer leaves from the endives. Slice off the root ends, and separate the endives into spears. Arrange the endive into stacks of five, and cut each stack in half lengthwise.

    Step 6

    Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 1 minute. Add 3 tablespoons butter, and when it foams, add the endive and remaining 2 teaspoons of thyme. (You may need to do this in two pans or two batches. Divide the ingredients accordingly if so.) Sprinkle in the sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Sauté over medium heat about 4 minutes, until the endive is slightly caramelized and softened. Turn off the heat, and leave the endive in the pan while you cook the fish.

    Step 7

    Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. (Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to cook the fish in batches.) Season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides. Swirl in the olive oil and wait 1 minute. Carefully lay the fish in the pan, skin side down, and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until the skin is crisp. Turn the fish over, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook a few more minutes, until it’s just cooked through. Be careful not to overcook the fish. When it’s done, the fish will begin to flake and separate a little. Remember, the fish will continue to cook a little more once you take it out of the pan.

    Step 8

    Transfer the endive to a warm platter, and wipe out the fish pan with paper towels. Heat the pan over medium-high heat for a minute. Add the remaining 7 tablespoons butter and cook a few minutes, swirling the pan occasionally, until the butter browns and smells nutty. Turn off the heat, wait 30 seconds, and add the hazelnuts. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt, a pinch of pepper, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons sliced parsley.

    Step 9

    Arrange the fish over the endive. Stir the brown butter, scraping the bottom of the pan to incorporate all the little brown flecks. Spoon the butter over the fish.

Sunday Suppers at Lucques [by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.. Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz. Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles. ](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)
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