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Malted Chocolate Cake With Namelaka and Cherries

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A chocolate cake made with namelaka frosting and cherry topping.
Photo by Joseph De Leo, Food Styling by Sean Dooley

Chocolate and cherries have always been a classic flavor combination. In Black Forest Cake, or a classic chocolate-cherry sheet cake—not to mention chocolate-covered cherries. Here, I take the pairing a step further by filling and topping malted chocolate cake layers with creamy namelaka. What’s namelaka? It translates directly to “smooth” or “creamy” in Japanese and is a chocolate cream that lies somewhere among chocolate ganache, crémeux, and pastry cream. At its simplest, namelaka consists of just four ingredients: chocolate, milk, cream, and gelatin; but here I’ve added a touch of salt and optional malted milk powder to enhance the flavor. The latter ingredient is optional in both the cake and namelaka but adds a subtle toasty, butterscotch-y flavor that enhances the creamy richness of the chocolate cream.

Namelaka has no added sugar, so its sweetness level will be determined by the chocolate you use. The higher the percentage of cacao, the less sweet the namelaka will be. If you can’t find cherries, you can use store-bought cherry (or any variety) jam instead of making your own. And if you have only one cake pan, pour half of the batter into the pan, bake, and cool the first cake layer according to the recipe. After removing the cake from the pan to cool, wash and dry the pan and repeat the process.

If you don’t frost the entire cake, any leftover namelaka can be used to fill choux pastry (like eclairs and cream puffs), fully baked tart shells, or pie crusts—or simply eaten like pudding. Any leftover jam can be used however you prefer to enjoy jam.

Recipe information

  • Total Time

    2½ hours (plus cooling and 4½ hours for chilling)

  • Yield

    8–12 servings

Ingredients

Cake

Nonstick vegetable oil spray
1¾ cups (350 g) granulated sugar
1½ cups (188 g) all-purpose flour
1 cup (84 g) unsweetened cocoa powder
½ cup (70 g) malted milk powder (optional)
2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. baking powder
¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 cup buttermilk, room temperature
½ cup vegetable oil
2 tsp. vanilla extract
½ tsp. almond extract
1 cup hot coffee

Jam

1 lb. pitted fresh or frozen sweet dark cherries
⅓ cup (67 g) sugar
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. cornstarch
¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or Morton kosher salt
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 tsp. vanilla extract
¼ tsp. almond extract

Namelaka and assembly

1 envelope unflavored powdered gelatin (about 2½ tsp.)
9 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 cup whole milk
⅓ cup (47 g) malted milk powder (optional)
¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or Morton kosher salt
1¾ cups chilled heavy cream

Preparation

  1. Cake

    Step 1

    Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Lightly coat two 8"-diameter cake pans with nonstick vegetable oil spray and line bottoms with parchment paper rounds. Whisk 1¾ cups (350 g) granulated sugar, 1½ cups (188 g) all-purpose flour, 1 cup (84 g) unsweetened cocoa powder, ½ cup (70 g) malted milk powder (if using), 2 tsp. baking soda, 1 tsp. baking powder, and ¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a large bowl to combine. Whisk 2 large eggs, room temperature, 1 cup buttermilk, room temperature, ½ cup vegetable oil, 2 tsp. vanilla extract, and ½ tsp. almond extract in a medium bowl until smooth. Gradually add to dry ingredients, whisking until incorporated. Slowly add 1 cup hot coffee, whisking until smooth.

    Step 2

    Divide batter between prepared pans (650 g with malt/620 g without malt). Bake cakes on middle rack, rotating front to back halfway through, until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 35–45 minutes. Transfer pans to a wire rack and let cakes cool in pans 30 minutes. Run an offset spatula around edges to loosen cakes, then turn out onto rack and carefully remove parchment paper; discard. Let cakes cool completely.

    Do ahead: Cakes can be baked 3 days ahead. Wrap tightly in plastic and chill, or freeze up to 3 weeks.

  2. Jam

    Step 3

    Bring 1 lb. pitted fresh or frozen sweet dark cherries, ⅓ cup (67 g) sugar, 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, 1 tsp. cornstarch, and ¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or Morton kosher salt to a boil in a medium saucepan, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring often and smashing cherries to break up slightly (you want jam to be chunky), until jam is uniformly bubbling, glossy, slightly darkened in color, and coats a spoon, 15–25 minutes. Remove pan from heat and stir in 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, 1 tsp. vanilla extract, and ¼ tsp. almond extract; let cool. (You should have about 1 cup jam.)

    Do ahead: Jam can be made 3 weeks ahead. Transfer to an airtight container and chill, or freeze up to 6 months.

  3. Namelaka and assembly

    Step 4

    Pour 2 Tbsp. cold water (from the tap is fine) into a small bowl. Sprinkle 1 envelope unflavored powdered gelatin (about 2½ tsp.) evenly over. Let sit 10 minutes.

    Step 5

    Meanwhile, place 9 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped, in a large bowl. Whisk 1 cup whole milk, ⅓ cup (47 g) malted milk powder (if using), and ¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or Morton kosher salt in a medium saucepan to combine, then bring just to a steaming boil (not rolling) over medium heat, about 4 minutes.

    Step 6

    Remove from heat, add gelatin mixture, and whisk until dissolved. Immediately pour through a fine-mesh sieve over chocolate and let sit 2 minutes, then whisk until chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth. Whisk in 1¾ cups chilled heavy cream. Cover namelaka with plastic wrap, pressing directly onto surface, and chill until set (it will be thickened and slightly jiggly, like chocolate pudding, at least 4 hours. (You should have about 4 cups.)

    Step 7

    Using a serrated knife, trim off any domes on tops of cakes. Stir namelaka with a rubber spatula to loosen. Spread 1 Tbsp. namelaka in center of a cake stand or large plate (this will prevent cake from sliding around). Place 1 cake layer, right side up, on cake stand. Scoop 1 (heaping) cup namelaka on top and spread evenly with an offset spatula. Dollop two thirds of jam (about ⅔ cup) over namelaka and spread evenly (you can go all the way to the edges or leave a small border). Place second cake layer, cut side down, on top. Scoop 1 (heaping) cup namelaka on top and spread to edges, leaving smooth or swirling decoratively. Frost sides of cake with a thin layer of remaining namelaka (like a “naked cake”) or as thickly as you’d like; or reserve leftover namelaka for another use. Dot top of cake with more jam, swirling if desired. Chill cake uncovered until namelaka is set, at least 30 minutes.

    Do ahead: Namelaka can be made 3 days ahead; keep chilled. Cake can be assembled 2 days ahead. Keep chilled (uncovered).

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