Grilled Quail with Pancetta, Ricotta Pudding, and Sicilian Breadcrumbs
I hope this quail recipe tempts you to venture away from the usual poultry mainstays. These smaller birds don’t have as much meat as others, but they make up for their size in flavor. On this platter, you’ll find all of my favorite Sicilian ingredients. Ricotta is the favored soft cheese of the south, and here I’ve blended it into a hearty, savory pudding. Pancetta, the essential flavoring of so many things Italian, gives the wilted spinach its salty punch. Olive oil–toasted breadcrumbs are the crunchy finish, a tasty result of the Sicilians’ thrifty mentality. And last but not least, currants and pine nuts are a classic Sicilian combination, bringing sweetness and earthiness to the dish. Grilling the quail gives them a smokiness you can’t achieve in the oven. Build a large fire, and spread the coals to heat the entire surface of the grill. If your barbecue is too small to accommodate all twelve birds at once, grill them in batches and reheat in a very hot oven just before serving. Watch the birds carefully as they grill, so they don’t overcook and dry out.
Ingredients
Ricotta Pudding
Preparation
Step 1
Season the quail with the chopped rosemary, 2 tablespoons thyme, half the sliced chiles, and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.
Step 2
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Step 3
Toss the breadcrumbs with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Spread them on a baking sheet, and toast 8 to 10 minutes, stirring once or twice, until golden brown.
Step 4
Light the grill 30 to 40 minutes before you’re ready to cook. (Remember to use extra coals, spreading them out, so the heat is evenly dispersed over the entire area of the grill.) Take the quail out of the refrigerator to come to room temperature.
Step 5
Stack the pancetta slices and cut them into quarters. Heat a large, deep sautépan or Dutch oven over high heat for 2 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil, swirl, and place the pieces of pancetta in the pan. Cook 2 to 3 minutes, until the pancetta is crisp, and turn the pieces over. Add the rosemary sprigs to the pan, and cook another 2 to 3 minutes, until the pancetta is crispy on the second side. Turn the heat down to medium and add the shallots, 2 teaspoons thyme, and the remaining sliced chile. Sauté 3 to 4 minutes, stirring often, until the shallots are translucent and starting to caramelize. Turn off the heat.
Step 6
When the coals are broken down, red, and glowing, season the quail with salt and pepper. Tuck the wing tips behind the wing joints. Place the quail, breast side down if you’re using boneless or skin side down if you’re using butterflied, on the grill. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, rotating the birds a few times, until the skin crisps. Turn the quail over and cook them another 2 to 3 minutes or so, until the meat is just rosy. I like to peek inside the legs (a rather obscene gesture, I know, but it works!) to check for doneness.
Step 7
Toss the currant–pine nut relish with the breadcrumbs. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper and taste. (These are the Sicilian breadcrumbs.)
Step 8
Reheat the shallots and pancetta over medium-high heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until hot. Turn off the heat, and add half the spinach. Toss quickly with tongs to combine the ingredients. As the spinach just begins to wilt (this will happen very quickly), add the rest of the spinach, tossing to coat well with the pancetta and shallots. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt, a pinch of freshly ground black pepper, and some lemon juice. Taste for seasoning, and arrange on a large warm platter.
Step 9
Place the quail over the spinach, and sprinkle the Sicilian breadcrumbs on top. Serve the warm ricotta pudding on the side.
Ricotta Pudding
Step 10
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Step 11
Whisk the eggs, egg yolk, and ricotta together in a large mixing bowl. Add the cream, milk, 1 teaspoon thyme, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Whisk to combine. The mixture will be a little lumpy.
Step 12
Taste for seasoning, and pour into a buttered 9-inch baking dish. Decorate the top of the pudding with the chile and remaining 1/2 teaspoon thyme. Cover the dish with foil, place it in a water bath, and bake about 1 hour, until the custard is just set
Note
Step 13
If you can’t find boneless quail, butterfly whole ones: Use scissors to cut through the cavity down one side of their backbones, and then place them on a cutting board and gently press down with the heel of your hand to flatten them slightly. Prep and marinate the quail the night before. You can also make the currant–pine nut relish a day ahead.
