- Price Points
- Season 1
- Episode 14
Condiment Expert Guesses Which Condiment is More Expensive
Released on 12/20/2018
I'm Scott Norton and I'm a condiment expert.
[whimsical music]
Wow.
[bell rings]
Let's dive in.
So we'll start with ketchup A here.
Smooth, glossy, reflecting a lot of the light
that comes off it with a sheen.
And we'll give it a sniff.
Some sweetness that we smell.
And a little bit of spice.
You can also start to see a little bit of water
pooling around the edges of ketchup A.
Water is leeching out of the tomato particles,
out of those cell walls which have collapsed
when cooking and this we call syneresis.
This is a bit of a gloopy product.
Definitely an industrial ketchup
that is really quintessential for a ketchup.
And ketchup B texture is radically different.
You see almost a chunkiness here.
Something that has little ridges.
A little bit less syneresis and is generally
more of a textured product.
Giving that a sniff, it's more muted.
Less tartness, a little less sweetness.
Not as much spice and maybe a little bit more bitter.
And this is actually a looser product
as you can see here, it's actually got less viscosity
and it's dripping off the spoon.
So first we're gonna taste ketchup A here
and what better to dip it in than its best friend
the french fry.
Gonna dip that in there, give it a munch.
It's a nice, salty fry.
And we get the acid and we get the sweetness
of the ketchup coming through.
Definitely a classic complement.
All right let's move to ketchup B.
Now let's give this the fry test.
Coats the fry very well.
Doesn't have the acid that it needs.
Doesn't have the saltiness that it needs
even with the presence of salt in the french fry.
I have to say this is definitely a different ketchup
than the classic ketchup.
Ketchup A is something that is gonna immediately speak
to us because it's the ketchup of our childhood.
A ketchup that we formed an emotional bond with
when it was one of the first foods that we could
actually control ourselves at the dinner table
when our parents gave us a bottle of this stuff.
You know that this ketchup has a big market,
a big audience.
This is the ubiquitous ketchup in America,
and because of that ubiquity,
there's very high production volumes
which allows the price to decrease.
Whereas ketchup B here is likely made with a more
artisanal, small-patch process.
My wager would be that ketchup A is the cheaper
of these two ketchups and ketchup B is the more expensive.
So let's find out. [drum rolling]
There's a huge difference here.
Ketchup B is almost nine times as expensive as ketchup A.
That is a massive difference when we think about
two things that have the same name or more or less
the same product.
So just because these two ketchups have very different
price points doesn't necessarily mean that one
is better than the other.
Don't let anyone tell you what ketchup you should
or shouldn't be eating based on nostalgia
or based on the culinary arts.
In fact, beauty is in the eye of the beholder
and nowhere is that more true than in ketchup.
Two delicious looking mayonnaises.
Clearly we immediately see a difference in color.
With mayo A being a little bit more yellow,
a little bit more golden,
maybe communicating to us that there's a higher
egg yolk content.
Mayo A, quite mild.
A little bit vinegary, a little bit sour.
You can see from the texture here that this one
is really thick without a lot of air pockets in it.
This is really like a homemade mayo.
Has stiff peaks and holds its character really,
really well with a nice yellowish color.
And in mayo B, we have something that's a bit more white.
Perhaps less egg yolk.
Mayo B, pretty inert, not a lot of flavor coming off
of this one.
And looking at the texture, it's a bit more gloopy
and anemic with less stiff peaks and higher air content.
An air content like this which suggests that
perhaps it was made more with an industrial mill
than with a typical home-style blending method.
So why don't we taste mayo A.
Let's dump one of these bad boys in there
and see what we get.
Mm.
Great mouthfeel, really complements the starch
in the fries and the salt in the fries
and that fat carries the flavors and dials them up.
So now mayo B, let's give it the fry test.
Give a dip here, texture's actually quite nice.
Cloud-like.
It doesn't quite hold up to the fry.
It doesn't accentuate the saltiness
and I can taste that synthetic preservative
that I don't love as much.
I can also taste far less egginess.
Far less of that rich and savory flavor that you get
from mayo A which would suggest to me
that this has less egg yolk in it.
Looking at both mayo A and mayo B,
I would wager to guess that mayo B is the less expensive
of the two, so let's see where we're at, yeah.
Well the proof is in the pudding.
At much higher price point, we have mayo A
at 74 cents an ounce and much less expensive,
14 cents an ounce for mayo B.
So a very wide margin between the price of these two mayos.
If you're shopping for mayo, you wanna look for a mayo
that does have a relatively high calorie count,
something that packs a punch when it comes to fat.
That's gonna drive a delicious texture.
That's gonna lubricate your sandwich better,
and that's gonna stand up great in something like
a tuna salad or a potato salad.
Looks like we have two mustards here.
My guess is that these are actually
two different types of mustard.
This one is likely a yellow, and this one is either
a Dijon mustard or it's a yellow mustard that has oxidized
and gone off.
Let's try mustard A.
Let's give it a sniff.
We get some acid on the nose and it's pungent,
and a bit spicy.
So something that we should remember with mustard
is that there are a couple different types of
spiciness or heat.
There's the spiciness and the heat that we know
from chili peppers which comes from capsaicin,
kinda burns the mouth.
That's very different than the type of heat
that you get from mustard which is a gustatory heat
that actually is felt in the nose.
This is a mustard that has a bit of that gustatory heat,
though it isn't an intense spicy mustard.
We'll start with a tasting spoon here.
You see when we look at this yellow mustard right here,
it's got a strong, vibrant hue which comes from both
the yellow mustard seeds and the turmeric
which is bright yellow.
It's totally homogenous.
This one doesn't have any flecks of anything in it.
And with mustard B,
it's a bit more mild.
Almost a bit sweeter actually and less spicy in the nose.
This mustard here, when we look at it closely,
we'll see that there are these little brown flecks
in a sea of light golden yellow.
Those brown flecks are likely the exterior
of the brown mustard seed and give it more
of a pungent flavor.
So now why don't we try giving them a taste.
Let's taste it with a pairing, in this case a pretzel.
Mm, really nice, really flavorful.
Though the bitterness comes through additionally
as we have the salt and the crunchiness
of this pretzel here.
Looking at mustard B, we'll taste it with a pretzel.
Mm, sophisticated, yet strong.
This is a mustard that, unlike this mustard here,
it actually pairs quite nicely with the pretzel
and compliments the saltiness and the crunchiness
of this pretzel.
So looking at these two mustards,
our yellow mustard over here which is very vibrant
and straight ahead, and our Dijon mustard over here.
I can likely infer some differences in quality
and costs and in price points.
There are three types of mustard seeds,
the first is yellow, which is likely what mustard A
is made out of.
Yellow in color and potent, but not overly spicy.
The second type of mustard seed is a brown mustard seed
that has an exterior which is brown
and an interior which is lighter.
That's likely what mustard B is made out of.
Third type of mustard seed is oriental mustard seed.
It's stronger and it's much more rare
to find oriental mustard in America.
The price of mustard seeds doesn't vary that much,
but the price of the white wine which likely
went into this Dijon mustard and the scale of production
that a yellow mustard like this probably enjoys
would lead me to believe that this is the less expensive
mustard of the two and this is the more expensive mustard.
So let's see what we get. [drum rolling]
All right, the Dijon is four times as expensive
as the yellow.
That's a significant difference in price
and likely to be expected.
Dijon mustard is famously a premium product.
As evidenced in advertisements of two people
in Rolls-Royces coming next to each other
and asking each other for a product like that.
This is a more quotidian mustard,
but it's hard to find a bad mustard.
If you're eating a simple hot dog, a ballpark frank,
this might be the perfect mustard to complement it.
But you might not put this on a cheese board.
Instead, you might lean for something like a Dijon mustard,
a milder, more complex flavor, and a decidedly
more grown-up mustard.
Ranch, the granddaddy of dressing.
Salad dressings in America are about a $3 billion market
and ranch is 40% of that.
It's by far the most popular dressing in this country
and for good reason.
So let's start with ranch A here.
We immediately see that there's an off-white,
almost eggshell color to it.
A little bit creamy, a little bit brown.
As we give it a sniff,
we don't get much, it's fairly mild, not very acidic.
And nutty.
And I don't quite know what's driving that nutty flavor.
When we look at ranch B,
we see a very similar texture but actually,
almost more rubbery, almost more like Elmer's Glue,
and decidedly more white with more pronounced specks.
As we smell it,
almost no nose on this.
There's not really any flavor volatiles coming off of this.
It's relatively inert, but let's taste it
and give it a try.
So why don't we taste B with a carrot.
On a carrot, it really holds its own.
See, a carrot is mostly water and so you need
the saltiness and the savoriness and intensity
of the fat in this ranch dressing to balance out
with a carrot, and it actually does that quite nicely.
This would do the trick of making a salad
taste fatty and savory and salty
and basically distracting someone from recognizing
that they're eating vegetables in the first place.
Tasting ranch A.
Mm.
Decidedly less going on here.
There's less savory flavor, less fatty flavor,
and this nuttiness has become almost a sweetness.
I don't quite know how to describe what I'm tasting.
Before we fully judge it, let's try it with a carrot stick
and see what we think.
It almost disappears on the carrot.
Doesn't have the saltiness, doesn't have the savoriness.
Doesn't have the intensity and the fattiness.
This is likely a lighter dressing
when it comes to calorie counts and probably doesn't have
any agents that make it more savory.
As I look at these two ranch dressings,
pretty hard to determine the quality of ingredients
because the fattiness of it really overwhelms
the details that you get.
Likely the spices that are used are relatively similar.
They I think both come from dry spices.
Though both the fattiness of this and the savoriness
of this to me would suggest that this is probably
a more recognizable, mass-produced, industrial product.
And this one is maybe a less well-known brand,
or an off brand of some kind.
Both of them deliver that ranch flavor,
but ranch B certainly seems like it's more straight
and narrow in terms of what people expect
when it comes to ranch.
Ranch B is the least expensive of the two
and ranch A with its interesting nutty flavors going on
is probably the more expensive of the two,
but let's see what they are. [drum rolling]
Tada.
60 cents for ranch A and 30 cents for ranch B.
Ranch A is essentially double a cost of ranch B
and I think that's fairly consistent
with what we tasted here.
The tricky thing about ranch is that the flavors
that you might love and respond to so much
might be synthetic ingredients and chemicals
that you might not want to eat.
So it's really important to read the ingredient list
of ranch and all dressings that you're gonna be eating
and actually taste them to see what you like.
You can find ranches that are natural,
that will taste much stronger, more potent
and much more delicious than ranch A here.
So I don't necessarily wanna give non-traditional ranches
a bad name just 'cause we had this experience
with ranch A.
At the same time, if you like the intensity
and the nostalgia factor and the savory flavors
that you might get in a ranch like B, give that a try.
So let's take a look at barbecue sauce A.
We pick this up and we look at the texture.
We can see here that it's not very viscous.
It's pretty watery, actually.
The color is a nice, deep red and when we give it a sniff,
it has a really satisfying flavor.
A bit acidic, a bit sweet and a bit smoky.
But certainly barbecue sauce A doesn't really have
any thickeners in it at all
and it doesn't have enough sugar content to really make it
gloopy and jammy the way that B is.
As we look at barbecue sauce B,
we'll see here that the texture is significantly thicker
and a bit gloopier.
Giving it a smell.
We have a lot more smokiness, a lot more sweetness,
and the color of course is a deep brown molasses,
significantly darker and we said earlier
it's got a thicker, almost gloopy texture.
Which might suggest that this is a much sweeter product
with a higher sugar content.
Let's taste barbecue sauce A.
But of course, we can't just eat it on its own.
We have to eat it with at least some type of meat.
Even though this is not a barbecued product,
but we're working with what we got.
Mm, mm.
Brings wonderful tanginess.
The perfect degree of smoke, the perfect degree of sweetness
and a very dippable texture.
As a condimenteer myself, a true respect
for what they've done with this barbecue sauce.
So how does this sweet, smoky and ardently spiced product
stack up when it's on a chicken tender?
Mm.
Really approachable, really easy to eat.
But doesn't have the tang that I'd like.
But I think if I had to guess, a kid might prefer
this barbecue sauce over A because barbecue sauce B
has that sweeter profile.
I might think that it could be made with something
like a high fructose corn syrup which as we know,
is cheaper than a cane sugar or potentially
even a fruit sugar which is what A might be made from.
Tasting barbecue sauce A and B,
I would definitely guess that barbecue sauce A
is the pricier of the two and barbecue sauce B
is the less expensive, so what do we have here?
I'm right.
This is about half the price that barbecue sauce A is,
but compared to some of the other condiments
we've seen today, the difference of these prices,
one being double, is not nearly as much as we've seen
in other categories where it's been up to four
or even nine times in some cases.
If you're actually cooking with a barbecue sauce,
I would recommend a barbecue sauce that is like A
which is less sweet and more acidic.
The acid is gonna cook, tenderize and marinate
the meat a bit more and also sugar is one of
the first things to caramelize.
So if you were to coat a piece of meat in barbecue sauce B
and then grill it, that sugar's gonna carbonize,
but if you don't pull it off in time,
it's gonna almost taste like burnt toast
which isn't a very attractive flavor.
These are both really edible, approachable barbecue sauces,
though I still have a favorite in A.
Pardon me for double dipping.
A lot of people have pre-conceived notions
about what a condiment should or shouldn't be.
But you don't necessarily have to follow that dogma
or that nostalgia.
Condiments are all about individualizing
and adding your own flavors to food.
It's about customization.
So go outside your comfort zone.
Try new things.
And follow your gut.
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