The Genoa Almond Cake—Pain de Gênes

Preparation

1. Step 1

   A special almond cake. Preheat oven to 350°F, and prepare the cake pan (see page 97). Measure out 1/3 cup all-purpose flour and return to sifter. Prepare 3/4 cup pulverized blanched almonds (see page 105), and cream 1 stick unsalted butter in a mixing bowl until soft and fluffy. Meanwhile, beat 3 “large” eggs “to the ribbon” (see page 100) with 3/4 cup sugar, 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract, and 1/4 teaspoon almond extract. Fold 3 spoonfuls of the egg-sugar mixture into the creamed butter. Then fold sprinklings of flour alternating with spoonfuls of pulverized almonds into the mixture and, when almost absorbed, fold in the butter by scoopfuls. Turn into the prepared pan, bang lightly on work surface, and bake in the middle level of the oven about 30 minutes. Let cool 20 minutes before unmolding on a rack. When cold, either serve as is, sprinkled with confectioners’ sugar, or split in two horizontally and fill with something like the brandy butter on page 103, and top with glace royale (page 103).

2. Variation

   Step 2

   ALMOND CUP CAKES. For 10 cup cakes baked in muffin tins of 1/3-cup capacity. For easy unmolding, grease the tins with a paste of 2 tablespoons flour and 2 tablespoons clarified melted butter. Divide the cake batter among the tins and bake about 15 minutes at 350°F, or until puffed and lightly browned. Let cool 15 minutes before unmolding. When cool, top with confectioners’ sugar or white icing (see page 103).

3. Folding

   Step 3

   Folding egg whites or flour or whipped cream or anything else into anything like a cake batter is an essential part of soufflé and cake making. You have to incorporate the one into the other without deflating the puff of the one or the other. To do so, plunge a large rubber spatula like a knife down into the center of the mixture, and draw it to the side of the bowl and up to the surface in a rapid scoop, bringing some of the bottom up over the top. Rotate the bowl slightly, and continue rapidly and gently for several scoops, until the elements are blended—but do not overdo it and deflate the puff.