Smoked-Chili-Rubbed Goat Shoulder
I'll barbecue the hell out of a goat: get the whole animal on the grill or do up just the head or maybe the legs—whatever strikes my fancy. But the shoulder is probably my favorite cut to treat to hours and hours of gentle smoky caressing. This is party cooking, because (a) everyone will want some of this tender, spicy action and (b) though it takes a while to cook, you're only not sitting on your ass and drinking for, like, 10 minutes. The goat shoulder smokes for approximately seven hours. The smoking should be done in an indirect smoker (Texas-style chamber smoker). A temperature of 225°F to 250°F (a big variation, as smokers can be hard to control) should be maintained for 7 to 8 hours. The time variation is big, too, as there are so many smokers, and often backyard versions don't hold heat all that well. At a constant 250°F, it should not take longer than 7 hours, but an understanding of the variable types of equipment should be acknowledged.
LISTEN
Idris Muhammad, Boogie to the Top—a fun, funky album. My favorite tune is "Bread" ("B-R-E-A-D, that's what I said!"). Dance with your goat!
DRINK
Laphroaig, a couple rocks. Goat, chili, and smoky Scotch—there should be a song about this trio.
Recipe information
Yield
Serves 4
Ingredients
Preparation
THE DAY BEFORE
Step 1
1. Use a mortar and pestle to pound the chilies, ginger, garlic, and parsley with the salt to a coarse paste, pounding each ingredient thoroughly before adding the next. Add the olive oil, pounding again to form a pretty smooth paste.
Step 2
2. Rub the goat shoulder with the chili paste and refrigerate, covered, for 24 hours.
THAT DAY
Step 3
1. Preheat a smoker (see Headnote above).
Step 4
2. Place the goat shoulder in the smoker (reserving any leftover marinade) and let it ride for about 3 hours. Keep an eye on the temperature, stoke your fire, and drink a Scotch. Occasionally baste the goat with the leftover marinade. After 3 hours, periodically jiggle the leg. When it gives you the sense that if you pulled just a bit harder you could tear it from the joint, it's ready, but it'll probably take another 3 to 4 hours. Serve it straight away on a platter and tear into with your hands.
