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Pumpkin Soup With Spiced Nuts

Pumpkin Soup With Spiced Nuts from Marcus Samuelsson
Photograph by Joshua Kissi, food styling by Roscoe Betsill, prop styling by Amy Wilson

Haitians often commemorate Independence Day on January 1 by eating soup joumou. While rebellion was ongoing throughout slavery, the Revolution began in 1791 and by 1804, Haitians had wrested control from the French. Black people in Haiti had been forbidden from eating soup joumou during enslavement, as the dish was a delicacy. Upon independence, the dish became a symbol for Black Haitians' freedom. This is my take on it.

This recipe was excerpted from ‘The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food.’ 

Editor’s note: We’ve updated the name and byline of this dish, and changed the headnote to match the excerpted recipe, which is chef Marcus Samuelsson's take on Haitian soup joumou, from  Samuelsson’s cookbook ‘The Rise.’ We apologize for misrepresenting this recipe.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    8 Servings

Ingredients

Candied Spiced Nuts

1½ cups raw almonds, walnuts, or pecans
3 Tbsp. pure maple syrup
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 tsp. berbere
½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt

Chile-Nutmeg Oil

1 Tbsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
½ cup vegetable oil

Soup and assembly

8 sprigs thyme
2 3" cinnamon sticks
1 Tbsp. whole allspice
1 tsp. whole cloves
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Kosher salt
1 large butternut or kabocha squash or pumpkin (about 4 lb.),peeled, halved, seeds removed, cut into 1" cubes (about 8 cups)
3 cups vegetable stock or water
3 cups unsweetened coconut milk (from two 13.5-oz. cans)

special equipment

A piece of cheesecloth

Preparation

  1. Candied spiced nuts

    Step 1

    Preheat oven to 350°. Toss almonds with maple syrup, oil, berbere, and salt in a medium bowl until nuts are evenly coated. Scrape onto a rimmed baking sheet and roast, tossing occasionally, until nuts are toasted and maple syrup is caramelized, 20–25 minutes.

    Step 2

    Transfer to a sheet of parchment and spread out in an even layer to prevent clusters from forming. Let cool, then coarsely chop and set aside.

  2. Chile-nutmeg oil

    Step 3

    Place red pepper flakes and nutmeg in a small heatproof bowl. Heat oil in a small saucepan over high until you see the first wisp of smoke. Gently pour oil over spices and let cool, about 1 hour.

  3. Soup and assembly

    Step 4

    Place thyme, cinnamon sticks, allspice, and cloves in center of cheesecloth; bring up edges together and tie closed with kitchen twine. Set aside.

    Step 5

    Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high. Cook onion, stirring often, until softened but not browned, 7–9 minutes. Add garlic, season with salt, and cook, stirring often, until garlic is softened, 3–5 minutes. Add squash and cook, stirring, just until coated in onion mixture, about 1 minute. Add bundle and pour in stock; season with a bit more salt. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until squash is tender, 20–25 minutes.

    Step 6

    Remove bundle and add coconut milk. Bring to a simmer; cook 5 minutes to let flavors meld. Purée soup with an immersion blender until smooth. (Or, purée in batches in a regular blender.) Season with more salt if needed.

    Step 7

    To serve, divide soup among bowls. Top with candied spiced nuts and drizzle with chile-nutmeg oil.

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