Pork Dinakdakan
A cousin of the more well-travelled pork sisig, dinakdakan (also called warek warek) comes from the Ilocos region of Northern Philippines. Traditionally, it’s made with “maskara” or pork face—ears, cheeks, tongue—that’s grilled, sliced thin, and mixed with chiles, onions, and calamansi juice. For Sheldon Simeon, chef of Tiffany’s and Tin Roof in Maui, the dish is a go-to pulutan (bar snack) and a proud vestige of his Pinoy heritage. He trades the pig head for readily available pork belly, which, when grilled, offers the perfect balance of juicy fat and crispy meat.
Classic dinakdakan recipes use pig brains as a creamy dressing for the grilled pork. Many cooks today, including Simeon, substitute mayonnaise, though he has chosen to leave it out here. If you’re curious, add about 2 Tbsp. mayo along with the ginger, fish sauce, and tangy dressing.
A two-step cooking method—first in a vinegary, soy-heavy braise, then on the grill—renders the pork meltingly tender from edge to edge. A hefty amount of barely cooked shishito peppers adds extra crunch and offers a nice contrast to the rich, fatty pork. If you have some green onions, a generous shower on top would be quite welcome. Serve this Ilocano dish as an appetizer with ice-cold beers or turn it into a main dish by spooning over rice.
Recipe information
Total Time
2 hours
Yield
4–6 servings
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Whisk 3 red or green Thai chiles, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced, 10 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped, ½ cup apple cider vinegar, ½ cup soy sauce, and 3 Tbsp. sugar in a small bowl to combine. Set ¼ cup dressing aside. Place remaining dressing in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot. Add 4 dried bay leaves, ½ large red onion, thinly sliced, and 3 cups water, then add 2 lb. skinless pork belly, sliced ¾" thick (it should be mostly submerged). Cover pot and set over medium heat. Bring to a simmer. Cook, adjusting heat as needed, until meat is tender (a chopstick inserted into the pork belly should meet with no resistance), 60–75 minutes.
Step 2
Remove pork belly from pot and let sit until cool enough to handle. Pat with paper towels to remove as much moisture as possible.
Step 3
Heat 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium. Cook 6 oz. shishito peppers, tossing occasionally, until softened and blistered, 5–7 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.
Step 4
If pan-searing, add 2 tsp. vegetable oil to same pan. Cook pork, turning halfway through, until golden brown, about 6 minutes.
Step 5
If grilling, prepare a grill for medium heat. Grill pork, turning halfway through, until crisp and golden brown, about 6 minutes.
Step 6
Transfer pork belly to a cutting board and let cool slightly, then cut into bite-size pieces. Transfer to bowl with shishito peppers; add 1 Tbsp. fish sauce, one ¾" piece ginger, peeled, finely chopped, remaining ½ large red onion, thinly sliced, and reserved dressing and toss to combine. Arrange on a platter and serve with steamed white rice if desired.
Recipe notes
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