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Agrodolce Chicken With Fennel and Celery Gremolata

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A plate of Agrodolce Chicken with a bowl of Fennel and Celery Gremolata from Irwins restaurant in Philly
Photograph by Jutharat Pinyodoonyachet

If your mental image of a gremolata involves mostly parsley, this version of the condiment—which is part topping, part side dish—will come as quite the surprise. Sure, there’s some fresh herbs in there (both parsley and oregano), but the bulk of the chunky, spoonable mixture is finely chopped fennel, celery, red onion, and a whole lemon, rind and all. Olives and capers add a briny note, and toasted almonds provide welcome crunch. You’ll find yourself coming back for scoop after scoop, even after the chicken is gone.

The agrodolce part of this recipe, which hails from chef Michael Vincent Ferreri of Irwin’s in Philadelphia—one of our 10 Best New Restaurants of 2022—appears in two places. First the mixture of honey and red wine vinegar, cooked until thickened and syrupy, coats the cooked and carved chicken for a final stint under the broiler, where the skin gets blistered and crisp in spots. Then you’ll add any drippings from the pan to the remaining agrodolce to bulk it up and add some meaty complexity. Don’t be shy when drizzling this over the final plate—it’s deeply flavorful and takes the chicken to the next level.

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What you’ll need

Recipe information

  • Yield

    4 servings

Ingredients

1 3½–4-lb. whole chicken
2 Tbsp. plus ¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided; plus more
¼ cup raw almonds
½ cup red wine vinegar
¼ cup honey
1 small Meyer lemon or regular lemon
1 small fennel bulb, cut into ¼" pieces
1 small red onion, cut into ¼" pieces
3 celery stalks, cut into ¼" pieces
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 oil-packed anchovy fillets
½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
2 tsp. chopped oregano, plus more leaves for serving
¼ cup dry white wine
¼ cup coarsely chopped parsley
¼ cup coarsely chopped Castelvetrano olives
3 Tbsp. coarsely chopped drained capers
Freshly ground black pepper
Flaky sea salt

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Season one 3½–4-lb. whole chicken all over with 2 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Place on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet and chill, uncovered, at least 1 hour and, preferably, up to 1 day.

    Step 2

    Let chicken sit at room temperature 45 minutes.

    Step 3

    Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 375°. Toast ¼ cup raw almonds on a rimmed baking sheet, stirring once, until slightly darkened in color and fragrant, 7–9 minutes. Let cool; coarsely chop.

    Step 4

    Place chicken, breast side down, in a large cast-iron skillet and roast until skin is light golden, 40–50 minutes.

    Step 5

    Carefully slide pan out of oven (handle will be hot); turn chicken breast side up. Continue to roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of a thigh registers 150° (chicken will still be pale on top), 15–25 minutes. Let cool until just warm, about 45 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, leaving juices behind in pan. Carve chicken into 8 pieces.

    Step 6

    While the chicken is cooling, whisk ½ cup red wine vinegar and ¼ cup honey in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, whisking often, until agrodolce lightly coats a spoon, 6–8 minutes. Remove from heat (it will thicken more as it cools) and set aside.

    Step 7

    Finely grate zest from 1 small Meyer lemon or regular lemon; set aside. Finely chop flesh (white pith and all), then pick out and discard seeds. Toss 1 small fennel bulb, cut into ¼" pieces, 1 small red onion, cut into ¼" pieces, 3 celery stalks, cut into ¼" pieces, and 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped, in a large bowl to combine. Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a medium skillet. Add half of fennel mixture and ¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Add chopped lemon, 2 oil-packed anchovy fillets, ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, and 2 tsp. chopped oregano. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. Pour in ¼ cup dry white wine and ¼ cup water; cook, stirring occasionally, until almost all of the liquid is evaporated, about 3 minutes. Transfer to bowl with remaining raw fennel mixture. Add almonds, ¼ cup coarsely chopped parsley, ¼ cup coarsely chopped Castelvetrano olives, 3 Tbsp. coarsely chopped drained capers, and reserved lemon zest. Drizzle with a little extra-virgin olive oil and toss well; season gremolata with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

    Step 8

    Heat broiler. Return chicken to cast-iron skillet, placing skin side up. Spoon some reserved agrodolce over (if it has thickened too much, reheat over medium with a splash of water until spoonable). Broil chicken until skin is browned and blistered in spots, 5–7 minutes. Transfer chicken to a platter; stir juices in pan into remaining agrodolce. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, swirling, 1 minute. Spoon over chicken; sprinkle with flaky sea salt and top with more oregano leaves. Serve chicken with gremolata.

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