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Almendrado de Pollo

One of the classic moles of Oaxaca, now popular throughout Mexico. Though no mole is simple, this is among the easiest and most straightforward, something you can actually consider making on a weeknight (especially if you’re an experienced cook and can brown the chicken and make the sauce at the same time). To be entirely authentic—or, at least, more authentic, since true authenticity is never really possible north of the border—you should roast most of the sauce ingredients before combining them in the skillet. Toast the almonds in a dry skillet, shaking occasionally, until fragrant; heat the peeled garlic in a dry skillet until lightly browned; roast the onions and tomatoes in a hot oven until blistered; and so on, right down to toasting and grinding fresh whole spices. (In fact, old-style cooks brown unblanched almonds and then peel them.) All of this does make a difference, and if you have the time, please try it. Believe me, though, the mole will be sensational without these steps. If you’ve never cooked with lard, have no fear: It has less saturated fat than butter and is still sold in virtually every supermarket. It remains a wonderful cooking fat. Serve with rice or Arroz a la Mexicana (page 517).

Recipe information

  • Yield

    makes 8 servings

Ingredients

2 dried ancho or other fairly mild chiles (the dish should not be too fiery)
1/4 cup lard (preferred) or neutral oil, like corn or grapeseed
1 large white onion, chopped
1 cup blanched almonds
Salt and black pepper to taste
10 garlic cloves, peeled
3 or 4 tomatoes, cored and chopped (about 3 cups)
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground cloves
1 tablespoon red wine or other vinegar
1 chicken, 3 to 4 pounds, cut into serving pieces, or 2 1/2 to 3 pounds chicken parts, trimmed of excess fat
Chicken stock, preferably homemade (page 160), as needed
Slivered almonds for garnish, optional

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Soak the chiles in hot water to cover.When they’re softened, after about 30 minutes, remove their stems and seeds.

    Step 2

    Put half the lard in a deep skillet or flameproof casserole and turn the heat to medium-high. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the almonds, salt, pepper, garlic, tomatoes, cinnamon, cloves, chiles, and vinegar and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes begin to break up. Cool slightly (in this as in every instance, take care when pureeing hot liquid; it’s best, if you have the time, to let the mixture cool to room temperature before pureeing), then puree in a blender. (You can prepare the dish to this point, cover, and set aside for several hours, until you’re ready to eat.)

    Step 3

    Meanwhile, or when you are ready to continue, put the remaining lard in a skillet, preferably nonstick. Turn the heat to medium-high and wait a minute or so, until the lard melts.Add the chicken, skin side down. Season it with salt and at least 1/2 teaspoon pepper and brown it well, rotating and turning the pieces as necessary, 10 to 15 minutes.

    Step 4

    Return the tomato mixture to the skillet or casserole and turn the heat to medium; bring to a gentle boil and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly thickened (if the mixture is too thick, add a bit of chicken stock). Taste and adjust the seasoning, then add the browned chicken and cook, uncovered, turning the chicken once or twice, until tender and cooked through, about 20 minutes. Garnish, if you like, and serve.

The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved. MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.
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