Arroz con Leche
It seems every country that grows rice makes rice pudding, and almost every experienced cook has his or her own technique. After years of playing with it, this is the one I like best, and it works well with the variations of most cuisines. In many cases rice pudding is simply milk bound by rice; often the amount of rice is well under 10 percent of the total. I prefer this recipe with just 1/4 cup, no more. The result is a thick milk custard with a recognizable but understated rice presence. If you want a dense and slightly chewier mixture, use the larger amount of rice. Other possible additions to rice pudding: a strip of lemon zest, a pinch of saffron threads, or a teaspoon of ground cardamom added at the beginning; a couple of tablespoons of raisins and/or slivered pistachios stirred in at the end. See the variations, and the following recipes, too—this group of recipes is unending.
Recipe information
Yield
makes 4 servings
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Combine the first 5 ingredients in a 3- or 4-quart casserole (an ovenproof saucepan will do), stir a couple of times, and place in the oven. Cook for 30 minutes, then stir. Cook for 30 minutes more, then stir; at this point the milk will have developed a filmy cream-colored skin, and the rice will have begun to swell. Stir the filmy skin back into the liquid.
Step 2
Cook for 30 minutes more. The skin will have redeveloped, a little darker this time, and the kernels of rice will have swollen a little more. Cook for another 30 minutes, then stir. Now the pudding is almost done. Return the mixture to the oven and begin to check the pudding every 10 minutes, stirring gently each time you check.
Step 3
The pudding may be done 10, 20, or 30 minutes later. Invariably, it is done before you believe it is. When the mixture is silky, creamy, and thick, the rice suspended perfectly in a rich custard, it is overcooked; when it cools, it will become too hard (though still quite good to eat). You must make a leap of faith and remove the custard from the oven when the rice kernels are very swollen and the mixture is thick but still quite fluid. As it cools, it will thicken considerably. While it’s cooling, remove the cinnamon stick.
Step 4
Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold, garnished with a bit of ground cinnamon.
Rice Pudding, Middle Eastern Style
Step 5
The cinnamon is optional.When the rice pudding is done, stir in 1 tablespoon rose water or orange-flower water; taste and add more if you like.
Rice Pudding, Galician Style
Step 6
Closely related to crème brûlée (page 635): When you’re ready to serve the pudding, set up a broiler so that the top of the casserole will be no more than 3 inches from the heat source; 2 inches is better. Cover the top of the custard with a thin layer of sugar—a tablespoon or two. (You may also divide the custard into small bowls or ramekins before proceeding.) Turn on the broiler and put the casserole or ramekins under the heat; rotate it so that the heat hits all parts of the top evenly. Cook until the sugar melts and blackens a bit, about 5 minutes, then remove. Serve within an hour.
Soupy Rice Pudding
Step 7
An interesting and soothing Scandinavian tradition: Double the amount of milk; reduce the sugar to 1/4 cup. Do not bake, but cook, covered, over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the rice is very tender, about 1 hour. Serve warm, in bowls, with fresh, whipped, or sour cream.
Coconut Rice Pudding, Jamaican Style
Step 8
This is good with some minced crystallized or peeled fresh ginger in it: Substitute homemade (page 584) or canned coconut milk for all or some of the milk.
