Celery

The seeds of cultivated fennel, like eggplant, are said to have been brought to France by Jews and other merchants. Of course, wild fennel grows everywhere in the south of France. I have tasted this salad in many North African French homes. It is very simple, and a lovely counterpoint to all the more elaborate salads of the North African tradition. Once the fennel and celery have begun to wilt a bit, the flavors all come together. If pomegranates are not in season, substitute dried cranberries or cherries.

In Turkey and Egypt during the period of the Ottoman Empire, the women in the harems, the wives and concubines of the Sultans and aristocracy, were the widows and daughters captured at war. The Circassians among them were known for their beauty and their culinary skills. This classic is part of their legacy. The recipe was given by Luli Fevsi and comes from the kitchens of the old Ottoman aristocracy in Egypt. It is a cold dish which may be served as an hors d’oeuvre or as part of a buffet table.

This spring soup is green and aromatic. It becomes more substantial if served over rice. Other vegetables such as artichoke bottoms (frozen ones will do; see page 8) cut into pieces, peas, and broad beans can also be added.

This herby vegetable dish is as good hot as it is cold. The potatoes can be peeled or not, as you wish.

For more information on baked tofu, see page 136. I’d like to see this superb product go mainstream! See the menu with Cold Fresh Tomato Soup (page 17). This would also be just as good served with Fresh Tomato and Corn Soup (page 18).

Whenever I make this for lunch I always think, “I should make this more often.” It’s a pleasant change-of-pace spread that can be served on fresh bread or, better yet, stuffed into pita.

When I serve this to lunchtime company, even tofu skeptics love it! For me, it’s a throwback to tuna salad, something I gave up many years ago, though I still liked its taste. This is especially good served in warm pita bread. I also like to mix leftovers with macaroni for a “tofuna”-noodle salad. For more information on baked marinated tofu, see page 136. For this recipe, it’s best to use a baked tofu product that comes in large chunks like Soy Boy’s Tofu Lin, rather than the type that comes in small cutlets.

Look for long-grain and wild rice mixes near other rice products on supermarket shelves. Wild rice adds an invigorating, nutty flavor and texture to pilaf.

Going on a picnic? Don’t leave home without this salad, which pares potato salad down to its marvelous essence. This is also excellent with grilled or broiled soyfoods or seitan, as in the menu accompanying Baked Barbecue Tofu and Peppers (page 141).

This makes a splendid companion to curried vegetable dishes, as in the menu suggested here.

Wild rice adds a nutty crunch and elegance to salads. This is a wonderful companion to squash dishes such as Stewed Spaghetti Squash, page 220. It’s also one of the first things I would consider packing for a fall hike or picnic. Look for long-grain and wild rice mix shelved near rice in well-stocked supermarkets.

Like slaws, this salad is nifty served with sandwiches and veggie burgers. It’s a great choice for taking on picnics as well.

Black beans and corn team up to create a substantial salad that’s a great potluck or party dish.

Simple ingredients with complexity and depth add up to an Italian classic. Oh, and did I mention this is mind-blowing? When purchasing the veal shanks, check that they are pink and smell sweet. The most important step in making Osso Buco is browning the meat. This develops a really rich brown color on the meat and adds a ton of flavor to the base of the sauce. Serve with Soft Polenta (page 244) or Garlic-Chive Mashed Potatoes (page 237). The gremolata is also good on a grilled fish.

Very slow roasting—175°F in a covered casserole—is ideal for whole-kernel grains as well as wild rice. The earthy flavors of whole grains blend well with the flavors we usually associate with another classic—tabbouleh.

A minestra paesana of humble ingredients, this is a delightfully satisfying and flavorful soup. The soup base is built on a pestata, a bit of tomato, and, if you have one, a piece of hard rind left from grating cheese. (I hope you save these! They are a great addition to almost any soup or stock.) One of my favorite vegetables, celery—and lots of it—gives the soup a delicate yet distinctive taste. And just before serving, a few handfuls of ditalini (or other short pasta) cook in the broth, to provide texture and substance. Don’t add the pasta until you are almost ready to serve, because it becomes soft and soggy left in the soup. In Abruzzo, as elsewhere in Italy, only al dente pasta should grace a soup bowl—and that’s what this recipe will give you.

Celery is plentiful and a wonderful vegetable, yet I see it mostly used in making stocks or salads. This way of braising celery is easy and flavorful, and makes a grand side dish for grilled fish or chicken. It can be cooked in advance and reheated when your guests come—or serve it at room temperature as an appetizer. I’ve also discovered that any leftovers make a very good chutney: chop coarsely and spread on a sandwich of cold cuts or cheese. Fantastic!