Gruyère

Fresh spinach and cheese is one of my favorite combinations. Here, the blast of the heat from the oven wilts the greens into the melted cheese. To brighten the flavors, I toss in a bunch of fresh herbs, too. If you have a pizza oven or stone at home, use it here. It’ll char the edges of the leaves and make them crisp.

There are countless versions of croque monsieurs and croque madames all over France. My mom cooks the sandwiches in a cast-iron press on the stovetop so that the bread becomes a crisp casing for the filling. I prefer a sandwich that’s hot and moist all the way through, so I bake the cheese on top of the bread and spread béchamel throughout. That’s the key to my version: The bread must completely absorb the sauce. The effort is well worth it.

This is something I grew up with, a dish my grandmother and mom always served family-style. For me, this combination—a fluffy, snowy mountain of shaved Gruyère with sliced sweet-tart tomato—is home. In Alsace, we sometimes mixed wine vinegar with honey and spices for the dressing, but sherry vinegar has a similar nuanced sweetness that works very well here.

These savory cheese puffs are a specialty of Burgundy, France, and are the perfect accompaniment to a cocktail or glass of wine. We’ve flavored our version with fresh herbs, but feel free to omit them. To prepare the gougères in advance, pipe the dough, top with cheese, and freeze on a baking sheet until firm; transfer to resealable plastic bags, and freeze until ready to bake, up to three weeks.

Essentially a custard of eggs, cream, and savory fillings baked in a pastry crust, quiche is simple to prepare, and takes well to a variety of flavors. For example, you can follow the recipe below to prepare quiches with the suggested fillings—mushroom, bacon and caramelized onion, or leek and corn—or substitute any other ingredients you prefer. You can bake a quiche in a plain pie plate, but the sharper edges of a tart tin better support the crust’s sides. In addition, blind-baking the shell will prevent the crust from undercooking and getting soggy. A perfectly cooked quiche will be completely set (it shouldn’t jiggle in the center), slightly puffed, and lightly browned across the surface.

Inspired by the robust cooking of Alsace, a region in northeastern France bordering Germany, this flaky pie features a rich filling of potatoes, Comté (or Gruyère) cheese, leeks, and garlic-infused cream. Rather than adding the cream to the filling at the beginning, it is poured through the vents on top of the pie only after the pastry has turned golden brown, and then the pie is baked ten minutes more. This allows the crust to crisp properly and keeps the potatoes from soaking up all the cream before the pie has finished baking.

The lattice top is taken to a new level with this yellow-and-green basket-weave design made from strips of summer squashes. The tart offers as good a reason as any to head to a farmers’ market—or, if you’re lucky, your own garden—for zucchini and yellow squash. Use a mandoline or other adjustable-blade slicer to slice the squashes lengthwise.

Based on the classic pâté à choux or cream puff pastry from my culinary school days, this elegant and easy appetizer can be made ahead. It can be prepared dairy-free, too, but egg substitutes won't work as the eggs are necessary to help create the structure of these bite-size treats.

This classic of la cuisine grandmère did not come to Cakebread Cellars via anyone’s French grandmother. We learned it from Rich Collins, who introduced endive to the United States when he began cultivating it commercially in California in the 1980s, as a young man barely out of college. Naturally, he calls his product California endive, not Belgian endive, and he has almost single-handedly built an American audience for this shapely chicory. We have watched Rich’s company, California Vegetable Specialties, grow exponentially, and we use his flawless endives year round in hors d’oeuvres and salads. Make endives au jambon—braised endives wrapped with ham and baked in béchamel sauce—on a blustery winter night, and bring it straight to the table in its baking dish.

Serve these bacon-and-cheese-stuffed onions as a side dish for roasts, or as an unexpected main course for dinner, supplemented by a green salad. Don’t rush the cooking of the chopped onions; keep them on the heat until caramelized, for the best flavor.

Smothered in a rich, creamy Gruyère-cheese sauce, then sprinkled with toasted parmesan bread crumbs, cauliflower becomes a favorite-comfort-food contender.

THIS IS THE SAME GREAT BEECHER’S MAC AND CHEESE recipe taken to a new level, with the spice of chiles and the addition of vegetables. Feel free to experiment with leftover cheeses for new flavor combinations.

THE RICH FLAVORS OF CLASSIC FRENCH ONION SOUP are especially comforting on a cold, gray day. The original recipe is lightened here by substituting chicken for beef stock. The croutons are the grand finale, and making them yourself is a snap; simply top sliced bread with cheese, bake on a baking sheet at 350°F. until golden brown, and cut into cubes. If possible, use homemade Chicken Stock (page 230) in this soup; the flavor is incomparable.

WHY IT’S LIGHT The whole eggs in these individual frittatas are supplemented with egg whites for fewer calories and less cholesterol. They still taste rich, though, thanks to a small amount of nutty Gruyère cheese. Customize the recipe by adding fresh herbs, chopped cooked vegetables, or even a bit of cubed ham to the egg mixture before baking.

Think of these as the best part of French onion soup minus the broth. Better yet, they're in a form that's much easier to eat than the soggy wet bread, weighed down with cheese, that usually tops crocks of onion soup. Don't be surprised if these disappear before you get a chance to sample one yourself!

This pie makes a good picnic breakfast.

A panade is a thick soup made of layers of bread, vegetables, and cheese moistened with broth or water and baked until soft and golden. This onion panade is a hearty, homey soup bursting with sweet onion flavor.

My friend Lulu from Bandol often serves these—usually the variation with anchovies. Hot from the oven, they are perfection with chilled rosé wine.