Gratin

When simmering the cream, make sure it's over gentle heat (if it over-reduces, it will break).

Bucheron is an aged goat cheese—sharp but gooey and oozy around the edge. If using fresh goat cheese, it will soften not melt.

You will fight your own relatives for the bits of cheesy goodness stuck to the bottom of the pan.

Any kind of firm, sweet pumpkin or squash can be used for this recipe. If you want a shortcut, you can buy pre-cubed butternut squash. Just make sure the surface of the squash looks fresh and moist.

Lamb's-quarters is a common weed that is being rediscovered as the super-food it was reputed to be centuries ago. It goes by many names, but the most descriptive is wild spinach because that's exactly what it tastes like: Spinach, only way better! If you like creamed spinach, you'll love creamy lamb's-quarters, baked under a cheesy crumb crust.

Artichokes are a rite of spring and essential to Easter in Italy where you will see this member of the thistle family piled high on market tables. Trimming the artichokes does take time, but they can be braised ahead and reheated. Garlic and lemon are a no-brainer with artichokes, while the anchovy is the secret weapon that adds a deep savoriness to the vegetable without any hint of fish.

The personality of raclette in macaroni and cheese—the combination of cornichons and creamy, salty cheese takes to pasta with an irresistible grace.

The key to gratins is having all the ingredients—whether they're basic potatoes or the mixed root vegetables below—sliced the same thickness so they cook at the same rate. Make friends with a mandoline: It quickly yields precise, even slices.

"A crunchy, cheesy topping gives squash big flavor and texture." —Chris Morocco, associate food editor

We love mashed potatoes in every way possible, but we're extremely partial to this incarnation paired with cauliflower. Since cheese is a natural with both potatoes and cauliflower, incorporating a little Fontina and parmesan into the purée adds a nutty goodness, without overpowering it with richness. Editor's Note: This recipe is part of our Gourmet Modern Menu for Thanksgiving for 2 or 20. Menu also includes: Citrus-Sage Roast Turkey with Gravy (whole turkey or breast ); Roasted Butternut Squash Ribbons with Arugula, Pancetta, and Hazelnut Salad; Cabernet-Cranberry Sauce with Figs; Challah, Sausage, and Dried Cherry Stuffing; and for dessert, Apple Crostata with Spiced Caramel Sauce .

Blanching the mustard greens and kale ahead of time both softens them up and helps keep their color.

Layers of potatoes smothered in cheese and mushrooms provide cozy comfort at any winter or holiday meal. This side—rich and creamy on the inside, toasted and crunchy on the top—will definitely warm you on a cold night. Gruyère cheese, sweet and salty, affords this dish its smooth texture, while the mushrooms add a distinctive flavor that will keep the family asking for seconds.

A sformato is essentially a soufflé that doesn't rise because there isn't any air or egg white whipped into it—foolproof! I serve it in place of mashed potatoes, since it has a great flavor without an excess of butter and cream. If I have people over, I'll bake it in individual gratin dishes with a few fresh thyme leaves on top for presentation's sake. Delicata squash has a flavor similar to that of butternut, but the skin is much thinner—edible, in most cases—and the squash is more delicate overall (hence the name). The flesh of a butternut or acorn squash would be a fine substitute. Cooking with squash in the fall and early winter months will yield the best results with this recipe. I find that out of season the squash become a bit waterlogged. You can do everything but bake the sformato in advance. Bring the dish to room temperature before baking.

Braising the fennel and simmering the potatoes in cream before assembling the gratin infuses them with extra flavor.

This classic French dish is originally made without cheese. It is the starch from the potatoes, and the cream and milk, which give the dish its cheesy taste while the leek and garlic gently infuse their flavors into the potatoes. Of course if you prefer you can add some grated gruyère to the top along with the cream.

Alain Ducasse— In the squash family, you have plenty of choice between pumpkin, butternut squash, and several other varieties. It all depends what you can find in the market. But if you do spot a Muscade de Provence, pounce on it, as it is particularly tasty.
Paule Neyrat— All hard squashes are rich in antioxidant carotenoids: The more orange the flesh, the more they contain. They are best enjoyed in winter, when they are in season.

In this recipe, a creamy parsnip purée stands in for a traditional béchamel.

Heavy cream is the most traditional liquid in gratins, but milk or stock, or a combination, can replace half the cream for a lighter result. In this recipe, the liquid is infused with thyme to help its flavor disseminate more effectively since the vegetables will soak up the liquid; this step can be omitted but it does make a difference.

For this rich side dish, one of the originals from the Pizzeria, we simmer the cauliflower in cream and then put it in the pizza oven to brown the top. I’ve never met anyone who didn’t like it. Butter, cream, garlic, cauliflower . . . what’s not to like?