Custard

Of all the citrus fruits (conveniently in season right now), tangerine has perhaps the most complex qualities. Floral and gently sweet, with an underlying tartness—like three fruits in one. And this lighter-than-air bavarian is wonderfully cool on the tongue, slowly releasing its various aromas as it melts in the mouth.

Baking flan slowly in a water bath gives it a silky, confection-like texture. Be sure to begin making this recipe one day ahead so it has time to chill overnight. For optimal flavor, remove the flan from the refrigerator at least 20 minutes before serving to allow it to come to room temperature.

Here's a mellow way to flavor this creamy and comforting Spanish custard dessert.

The light custard is quick to make, but it has to be prepared just before it's served.

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from Fonda San Miguel: Thirty Years of Food and Art, by Tom Gilliland, Miguel Ravago, and Virginia B. Wood. Flan is one of the most traditional desserts in the entire Hispanic-influenced world — from Spain and Portugal to Cuba and Puerto Rico, all the way to Mexico and Central and South America. It comes in a variety of flavors and textures, depending on the local tastes and agricultural products of each different region. When Fonda San Miguel opened in 1975, few, if any, Mexican restaurants in Texas offered flan as a dessert option. In the early days of the restaurant, a loyal customer named Ana María generously shared her family's heirloom recipe from the Mexican state of Guanajuato, and it has been a customer favorite ever since. It's very dense and creamy, balanced by a crunchy almond crust on the bottom.

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from The Essence of Chocolate: Recipes for Baking and Cooking with Fine Chocolate by John Scharffenberger and Robert Steinberg. Contributed by Michel Richard. Michel Richard adds an element of surprise to even the most classic of dishes. His version of crème brûlée pairs a smooth, cool layer of vanilla custard with a topping of silky dark chocolate mousse. The contrast is exceptional. The dessert can be made the day before and refrigerated, but the caramelizing must be done just prior to serving. When caramelizing the topping, we prefer a propane torch — available in most hardware stores — to the smaller, more expensive, and less effective culinary torches.

As the batter bakes, it separates into two distinctive layers — cake on top and custard on the bottom.

This simple sauce is delicious drizzled over the poppy-seed sweet bread or the rum raisin apple pie.

Rich, smooth, decadent, and stunning: There's a reason why food this luscious persists more than two decades later.

Bavarian cream is as famous as its origin is mysterious. It might have been invented by French cooks at the court of the Wittelsbacher, the powerful dynasty that ruled Bavaria for more than seven centuries until the last Bavarian king abdicated in 1918. Or possibly, it was first made by Isabeau de Bavière, daughter of a Bavarian duke who married King Charles VI of France in 1385. Whichever version you prefer, one thing is clear: Bavarian cream is deeply entrenched in history and a royal treat in the true sense of the word.

Budino is Italian for "pudding."

This recipe is adapted from Argentine chef Francis Mallman. Mallman also shared some helpful cooking tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page. Dulce de leche, a dense, creamy caramelized milk "jam," is Argentina's favorite homegrown postre (dessert). As an accompaniment to a simple peeled banana, it is Argentine childhood incarnate, and its appearance at the table is sure to trigger Proustian flights of memory and rapture in adults. Flan de dulce de leche is a classic recipe that tends to be permanently bookmarked in kitchen-scarred copies of El Libro de Doña Petrona, the scriptural cookbook that is Argentina's equivalent of Fannie Farmer. Richer than any flan you've ever had, here it is, as interpreted by Francis Mallman.

Editor's note: The recipe below by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten is excerpted from Off Duty, a collection of chefs' recipes compiled by chef David Nicholls. To read more about the book, click here.

This is one of actor Andy Garcia's favorite dishes; the recipe comes from his wife, Marivi. For more of his favorite foods, see "Feedback" in the May 2006 issue of Bon Appétit.