Xiao Jianming's Spareribs with Chiles

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Whisk together potato starch mixture and salt in a large bowl, then add ribs and toss to coat. Heat 6 cups peanut oil in a wok or 5-quart heavy saucepan over moderately high heat until it registers 280°F on thermometer. Transfer ribs to wok with a slotted spoon and fry until just beginning to color but not yet pale golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain.

   Step 2

   Heat same oil to 380°F and fry ribs again, until dark brown and crisp, about 5 minutes more, then transfer to clean paper towels to drain. Transfer hot oil to a large saucepan to cool before discarding.

   Step 3

   Add remaining 2 tablespoons peanut oil, red pepper flakes, and chile bean sauce to cold, cleaned wok, then stir-fry over high heat until fragrant, 2 to 2 1/2 minutes. Add ribs, whole chiles, wine, sesame seeds, and sugar, and continue stir-frying until chiles are fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer ribs to a bowl and toss with sesame and chile oils.

   Step 4

   *We prefer Eden brand sesame oil (available at natural foods stores), which is nutty and well balanced, as well as China Bowl, a supermarket brand, which is a little milder.