Roman-Style Semolina Gnocchi
If you think all gnocchi are potato-based bite-sized dumplings (as do most Americans), you are in for a surprise—and a great treat. Roman-style gnocchi di semolino are much more like polenta, made from a cereal porridge that is cooked and cooled until firm, then cut into small pieces and baked with a rich topping of butter and cheese. Yellow semolina (ground durum-wheat flour) even looks a bit like polenta, but it gives the dish a flavor and texture that are quite distinct from cornmeal. Gnocchi di semolino are usually served as a first course, instead of pasta, during a Sunday meal in a Roman household. It is a good dish when you have big crowds, since you can prepare it even the day before, leave it in the refrigerator covered with plastic wrap, and then just put on the butter and cheese and bake it in a hot oven where you might have a roast going. Because it holds its temperature for a while, you can set it on the table family style, with a serving spoon. Let people just take as much as they want. Traditionally, these gnocchi are cut into 1-inch rounds with a cookie cutter, but often, to avoid any waste, they are cut into squares or diamonds, which is just as good. Taleggio is a creamy cheese and I love it on this dish, but even just a Pecorino Romano will give you a nice flavorful crust.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 8 or more
Ingredients
For the Cooked Semolina
For Saucing and Baking the Gnocchi
Recommended Equipment
Preparation
Step 1
Put the milk, 4 tablespoons butter, and salt in the saucepan. Set over medium heat, stir occasionally until the milk is hot and the butter melted, then gradually pour in the semolina, whisking steadily.
Step 2
Cook the cereal slowly, over medium-low heat, for 1/2 hour or more, as the cereal thickens. Whisk frequently, scraping the bottom and sides of the pan too. Use a wooden spoon when the mixture stiffens, and cook until it is difficult to stir at all. If you want to cook it faster, raise the heat and stir constantly until done.
Step 3
Scrape and pour the hot semolina in the middle of the baking sheet—it doesn’t need to be greased or lined. Spread the cereal with a metal or rubber spatula to fill the pan in an even layer. Here’s a tip: dip the spatula blade in water to keep it from sticking to the grain. Let the sheet of semolina cool to room temperature and solidify. (If you want to bake it the next day, wrap and refrigerate the sheet.)
Step 4
Set a rack in the middle of the oven, and heat it to 400˚. Butter the insides of the baking dish, using about 2 of the 8 tablespoons of butter; melt the remainder, to drizzle on the gnocchi.
Step 5
With a large ruler and a sharp knife, cut 2-inch rows, lengthwise and crosswise, in the sheet of firm semolina, dividing it into small squares. Lift out one square—it should come up easily with a spatula—and lay it down, oriented to appear diamond-shaped, in a corner of the baking dish. Lay a whole row of semolina diamonds, evenly overlapping each other, the length of the dish. Arrange another row right alongside the first, and so on, until the baking dish is completely filled with diamond shapes and the baking sheet is empty.
Step 6
Drizzle the melted butter all over the rows of gnocchi di semolino. Toss the grated and shredded cheeses together, and sprinkle evenly over the dish.
Step 7
Bake the gnocchi for 30 minutes, or until the butter is bubbling in the pan and the top is a beautiful golden brown. Let the dish sit for about 5 minutes; cut in squares and serve hot.
