Pork Porterhouse with Sautéed Quince, Apples, and Potatoes
This is not your mild-mannered pork chop! The pork porterhouse is two cuts of meat in one—just like its better-known cousin the beef porterhouse. From the short loin of the pig, the pork porterhouse (porkerhouse?) consists of the soft, luscious tenderloin on one side of the bone and the meatier loin on the other. The classic American accompaniment to pork is, of course, apples. But in place of the traditional applesauce, I like to serve these hefty chops with the time-honored duo of apples and potatoes. Called deux pommes, or two apples—one from a tree and one from the earth—the two are sautéed together until crispy and golden brown. To show off more of fall’s cornucopia, I’ve added quince, “Eve’s apple,” to the mix. Slathering the chops with quince jam (membrillo in Spanish cuisine, cotognata in Italian) is a sophisticated nod back to that applesauce. Be sure to cut the quince, apples, and potatoes into similar-sized pieces, so when they’re cooked they all look the same. The mystery is part of the fun; there’s no telling which bite will be which pomme.
Ingredients
Sautéed quince, apples, and potatoes
Preparation
Step 1
Submerge the pork chops in the brine and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Step 2
Light the grill 30 to 40 minutes before cooking, and remove the pork chops from the refrigerator. If they’re still wet from the brine, pat them dry with paper towels. Take the quince paste out of the refrigerator and put in a warm spot to soften to a spreadable consistency.
Step 3
When the coals are broken down, red, and glowing, brush the pork chops with the olive oil and place them on the grill. Cook them on the first side about 5 minutes, rotating them a couple of times. When they have nice color, turn them over and cook another 4 to 5 minutes, rotating them once or twice. The pork chops should be cooked to just under medium. Peek inside at the bone; they should still be a little pink, and when you press them with your thumb, they should be springy.
Step 4
Arrange the hot sautéed quince, apples, and potatoes on a large warm platter. Scatter the dandelion greens over them. Slather the chops with the quince paste, and place them on top.
Sautéed quince, apples, and potatoes
Step 5
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Step 6
Toss the potatoes with 1 tablespoon olive oil, the garlic, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, and 1 teaspoon salt. Place in a roasting pan, cover with aluminum foil, and cook about 45 minutes, until tender when pierced. (Depending on the size, age, and variety of potatoes, cooking time will vary.)
Step 7
When the potatoes have cooled, peel them. Cut the potatoes in half lengthwise, and then place them, cut side down, on a cutting board. Cut each half crosswise into four or five wedges.
Step 8
While the potatoes are cooking, heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in 1 tablespoon olive oil and wait 1 minute. Carefully place the apples in the pan, flat side down. Add 2 tablespoons butter, and season with 1 teaspoon thyme leaves, 1 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of black pepper. Turn the heat down to medium, and cook about 5 minutes, until the apples are a beautiful deep golden brown. Turn the apples over, and continue cooking until they’re golden on the second side. They should be tender and cooked through. Transfer them to a plate to cool.
Step 9
Repeat this process with the quince. (They will take a little longer to cook.)
Step 10
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil and wait 1 minute. Place the potato wedges carefully in the pan, and season with the remaining teaspoon thyme leaves, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and some freshly ground black pepper. Cook the potatoes about 8 minutes, until they are crispy on one side. (Don’t try to move them or turn them if they are stuck to the pan; they will eventually release themselves if you’re patient.)
Step 11
Turn the potatoes over, add another tablespoon olive oil to the pan, and season the second side with 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook another 3 to 4 minutes, and then add the apples and quince. Cook a few more minutes, tossing well to combine. Taste for seasoning, and add the parsley.
Note
Step 12
Brine the pork chops a day or two before serving. You can roast the potatoes and sauté the apples and quince in advance. Sauté the potatoes right before you grill the pork; you can keep them warm in the oven.
