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Green Beans Provençal

My grandparents had a garden each summer and fall. To keep the soil rich and fertile, Dede would alternate between the fields in front of the house and behind it and the property down at the river. He planted by the moon and used time-honored wisdom as his guide. Meme would drive the tractor and Dede would follow behind with the plow. Dede loved green beans and would plant rows and rows. When he passed away, Mama tucked a handful in his suit pocket as he lay in his coffin so he wouldn’t miss them. These green beans are fresh and flavorful—a favorite Southern vegetable made with a classic French technique. This dish is excellent served hot, at room temperature, or chilled. If making it ahead, do not add the vinegar until the last moment or it will cause the beans to look mottled and green like hunter’s camouflage.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 4 to 6

Ingredients

1 1/2 pounds haricots verts or other thin green beans, trimmed
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, very finely chopped
2 tomatoes, cored, seeded, and chopped
30 niçoise or other brine-cured black olives, pitted, or 15 kalamata olives, pitted and halved
2 to 3 tablespoons mixed chopped fresh herbs (such as parsley, tarragon, and basil)
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Prepare an ice-water bath by filling a large bowl with ice and water.

    Step 2

    Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the beans and cook until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Drain well in a colander, then set the colander with beans in the ice-water bath (to set the color and stop the cooking), making sure the beans are submerged.

    Step 3

    In the same pot, heat the oil over low heat. Add the garlic and heat until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Drain the beans, shaking off the excess water. Return the beans to the pot along with the tomatoes. Add the olives and herbs and toss to combine. Drizzle over the vinegar and toss to coat. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve hot, warm, or cold.

  2. bush beans and pole beans

    Step 4

    Green beans grow as either bush beans or pole beans (the beans grow on a vine that travels up a pole). Typically, pole beans are bigger, thicker, and tougher than bush beans. They can be substituted for their thinner counterparts, but will take longer to cook until tender. Pole beans are still fairly old-school and are most often simmered with fat until they are soft and tender, not crisp. Haricots verts are especially thin and tender French green beans that are better when briefly cooked to showcase their flavor.

Cover of Bon Appetit, Yall by Virginia Willis featuring a serving of corn souffle.
From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.
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