Fried Smelts
In Vietnam, the delicate anchovies (ca com) used for making fish sauce are also fried and enjoyed as a snack like a Spanish tapa or as part of a meal along with a simple soup, boiled or stir-fried vegetable, and rice. Even though these small fish are sold frozen at Viet markets, I like to use smelts, which are the perfect North American substitute. Delicate and sweet, they have soft, edible bones that allow you to “eat them like French fries,” as a fishmonger once told me. And the batter remains crispy long after the last fish is fried. Use the freshest smelts you can find or substitute other small fish available in your area, such as fresh anchovies.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 8 to 10 as a snack, or 4 to 6 with 2 or 3 other dishes
Ingredients
Batter
Preparation
Step 1
To prepare the smelts for frying, work near the sink with a plastic bag nearby to hold unwanted bits. First, cut off their heads. If the smelts are less than 3/4 inch wide, simply cut off the belly (the guts will go with it) by making an angled cut from the neck down to the small anal opening. For larger smelts, slit the fish open along the belly and remove the guts. Rinse each fish under running water and use your finger to scoop out any remaining viscera. Pat the fish dry with paper towels. Transfer to a bowl and toss with the salt, pepper, and sugar.
Step 2
To make the batter, in a bowl, stir together the all-purpose flour, rice flour, and cornstarch. Make a well in the center, pour in the ice water, and then stir together the wet and dry ingredients to make a smooth, thick batter. If it seems heavy like pancake batter, add water by the teaspoon until it thins slightly.
Step 3
Put a wire rack on a baking sheet and place next to the stove. Set the fish and the batter on the other side of the stove. Pour oil to a depth of 1 1/2 inches into a wok or 5-quart Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat to 350°F on a deep-frying thermometer. (If you don’t have a thermometer, stand a dry bamboo chopstick in the oil; if small bubbles immediately gather on the surface around the chopstick, the oil is ready.)
Step 4
When the oil is ready, take a fish by the tail and drag it through the batter, letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Lower the fish into the hot oil. Repeat with a few more fish, being careful not to crowd the pan. Fry, stirring the fish occasionally so they don’t stick together, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the batter-coated bodies are golden and the tails are golden brown. Using a skimmer, transfer the fried fish to the rack.
Step 5
When all the smelts are fried, pile them on a plate and serve with the dipping sauce.
