As anyone who knows me will testify, my body is a temple. A Buddhist temple. Friends have cruelly suggested I had been in training for the following events in the London 2012 Olympic Games—the diabetics and the paralytics. In response, I thought I could kill two birds with one stone by undergoing an eight-day hunger strike outside the home of the prime minister in protest about the lack of equal parenting rights in the UK. By Day 6, an armed response team were protecting David Cameron's refrigerator and I would have killed for a quiche. I knew licorice had to be in the book after I began hallucinating about a character made from assorted licorice candies. The Prime Minister subsequently sent me a letter as slippery as his preelection commitments.
Calabrian licorice is probably the best in the world. The soil and climate in Calabria, the "toe" of Italy, is ideal for growing glycyrrhiza glabra, the roots of which produce licorice with a bittersweet taste that is said to have soothing properties for digestion and sore throats
Recipe information
Yield
About 2 cups
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
1. Put the licorice in a saucepan with 1/2 cup of water and place over low heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the licorice has melted.
Step 2
2. Meanwhile, pour the milk and cream into a large saucepan and heat gently, stirring occasionally, until the mixture begins to steam but not boil.
Step 3
3. Whisk the egg yolks in a heatproof bowl until smooth. Add the sugar and vanilla and whisk until pale and slightly fluffy. Gradually and slowly, pour the hot milk into the egg mixture while whisking continuously to prevent the eggs from scrambling. Return the mixture to the saucepan, place over low heat, stir in the melted licorice, and heat until the custard thinly coats the back of a wooden spoon. Do not let boil. Add the black food coloring to desired effect.
Step 4
4. Pour back into the bowl and set aside for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until cooled to room temperature. For more rapid chilling, fill a sink halfway with cold water and ice and place the bowl of mixture in it for 20 minutes. Never put the hot mixture into the refrigerator.
Step 5
5. Once cooled, cover the mixture and refrigerate, ideally overnight, but at least for 6 hours, until thoroughly chilled (at least 40°F). Pour the chilled mixture into an ice cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 6
6. When the churning is complete, use a spoon or spatula to scrape the ice cream into a freezer-proof container with a lid. Freeze until it reaches the correct scooping texture (at least 2 hours).
