Spare Rib

Pat: Our first taste of national recognition came in 1997, when our pork ribs were voted "the best ribs in Memphis" by the local media. After the votes were cast, the Today show came calling. Tony and I wound up being featured on a segment with Al Roker. Al's enthusiasm for our cooking made others take notice—it was a big moment. It's important to note that we did not become rib masters overnight. It took time to learn the appropriate techniques. Tender, slow-cooked spare ribs require a certain amount of skill and experience. We got ours, and now we are going to give you yours. Gina: All I can say about ribs is: Girl, get yourself a man that can grill and let him light it up!

You'll want to have plenty of white rice on hand to soak up the incredibly complex sweet-and-sour sauce that adorns these ribs.

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from The Barbecue! Bible 10th Anniversary Edition, by Steven Raichlen. To read more about Raichlen and barbecue, go to our feature The Best Barbecue in the U.S.A. It never fails to amaze me how one simple idea can give birth to so many great regional variations. Consider ribs. The pork rib is one of the most perfect morsels ever to occupy a grill. The meat is generously marbled, which keeps it moist during prolonged cooking. As the fat melts, it crisps the meat fibers and bastes the meat naturally. The bones impart a rich meaty flavor (meat next to the bone always tastes best), while literally providing a physical support—a gnawable rack on which to cook the meat. Yet depending on whether you eat ribs in Birmingham or Kansas City, or Bangkok or Paris for that matter, you'll get a completely different preparation. I've always been partial to Memphis-style ribs. Memphians don't mess around with a lot of sugary sauces. Instead, they favor dry rubs—full-flavored mixtures of paprika, black pepper, and cayenne, with just a touch of brown sugar for sweetness. The rub is massaged into the meat the night before grilling, and additional rub is sprinkled on the ribs at the end of cooking. This double application of spices creates incredible character and depth of flavor, while at the same time preserving the natural taste of the pork. Sometimes a vinegar and mustard based sauce—aptly called a mop sauce—is swabbed over the ribs (with said mop) during cooking; I've included one here, for you to use if you like. You can choose any type of rib for this recipe: baby back ribs, long ends, short ends, rib tips—you name it. Cooking times are approximate. The ribs are done when the ends of the bones protrude and the meat is tender enough to pull apart with your fingers. I like my ribs served dry, in the style of Memphis's legendary barbecue haunt, the Rendezvous. If you want to serve them with a sauce, you'll find a number to choose from in this chapter.

Ketchup might seem odd in this dish, but some say it's Chinese in origin (from ke-tsiap, a pickled condiment). Serve the ribs as an appetizer or as part of a dinner.

Sheila Jacobs and Lynn Kramer of Abreu, Cabrera, Dominican Republic, write: "We're both from the U.S., but we have lived in the Dominican Republic for about 25 years. We're friends, business partners, and neighbors, so we entertain together often. Cooking the local dishes has made us feel a part of the country."

Sweet and tangy, these ribs are a one-dish masterpiece that is surprisingly mild despite all the added Tabasco.

Years ago, in one of his famous cooking classes, James Beard showed us this simple, "can't fail" method for roasting spareribs. He predicted that this recipe would become an all-time favorite, and he was right. These ribs have the rich flavor of pork, which you can really taste, and they are also very tender and moist. Who needs all that BBQ sauce? If you can, get baby back ribs — they're best — but any pork spareribs will do.

A version of posole, a Mexican classic.

Begin preparing the ribs one day ahead so that they can marinate overnight.

Wuxi, just two hours outside of Shanghai and often referred to as Little Shanghai, is a bustling city known for its silk. It was once called Youxi, meaning "has tin," but the tin reserves were depleted during the Han dynasty, and so Wuxi, which translates as "without tin," became its new name. These spareribs are one of the city's signature dishes.

These are terrific as hors d'oeuvres at a cocktail party or on their own as a main course. Have your butcher cut the ribs into two-inch lengths, or you can do it yourself at home with a cleaver.

For the best results, these tender ribs need to marinate for at least 12 hours, so plan ahead. Offer a selection of bottled ales and lagers.

From Lidia's in Kansas City, an informal company dish that's sure to satisfy.

I use spareribs, but you also can use baby back ribs. Just be aware that the racks are smaller (about 1 pound each) and the ribs have less meat.

Little spareribs with "oriental" glazes were quite popular in the fifties. The sweet lacquers were composed primarily of ketchup, soy sauce and ginger, and they were nice complements to the rich meat. Forty years of progress at the supermarket have given us access to many more Asian ingredients, not to mention a taste for zestier fare. The glazes today tend to be like this one-complexly flavored and definitely more authentic.

You just cannot do this one wrong. You don't have to drain the sauerkraut. You don't even brown the ribs; they brown without your help. The recipe was handed down to Camille MacKusick by her father-in-law, from the family archives. All sorts of magical juices ooze out of everything. When the last finger is licked and the last lip smacked, everyone will weep.

The slow-sipping, mellow character of bourbon has always suited my palate, in a glass and as an ingredient. Compared to the sophisticated, somewhat standoffish refinement of brandy, bourbon is sturdy and straightforward in the kitchen. Always searching for a way to use bourbon, I've discovered that its sweet, no-nonsense flavor is perfectly at home in this garlicky glaze where it adds depth and a sweet edge to the taste. The recipe makes enough glaze for two racks of spareribs, but it can be doubled if you need more. Serve with collard greens and baked sweet potatoes.