Pork Loin

Totally elegant, easy, and seasonal, this is just the main to make for your next fall dinner party.

Sweet and sour are two of the five flavors of classical Chinese cooking (along with salty, pungent, and bitter), and go lo yuk, as the dish is called, is a favorite way to prepare pork in Cantonese cooking. I prefer fresh pineapple, but if you like your dish sweeter, use canned pineapple and reserve some of the juice from the can to add to the sauce in place of fresh pineapple juice.

Butterflying the pork loin isn't difficult, but many butchers will do it for you.

Add this one to the lineup for your next spring dinner party or Sunday supper.

This show-stopping pork roast features exquisite taste and elegant presentation, but the reason it’s one of our favorites is that it’s so easy and reliable—you’ll get great results every time.

This show-stopping pork roast features exquisite taste and elegant presentation, but the reason it's one of our favorites is that it's so easy and reliable - you'll get great results every time

If you prefer a smooth sauce, purée it in a blender. Serve with roasted potatoes and sautéed greens.

Try a heritage Berkshire pork loin rack for great flavor and tenderness. If you are lucky enough to have a pork vendor at your local farmers market you can buy it there (you might want to order it in advance) or it can be mail ordered from www.heritagepork.com or prairiepridefarmminnesota.foodoro.com. Many butchers can cut a loin rack for you as well. Commercially, the loin rack is cut into pork chops but if you call ahead they can cut a roast for you.

This is a very simple country-style recipe, kind of like the old family standby of fried pork chops, and is quite tasty if prepared correctly. It is important not to overcook the pork or it will be dry and chewy. In Mexico, pork shoulder chops or other secondary cuts are traditional, but I’ve used pork loin here to make preparation as easy as possible. Leave any fat on the loin to help keep it moist. If your loin is very lean (and modern pork tends to be very lean), letting it sit in a brine made of 8 cups water, 2 tablespoons kosher salt, 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, and 1 head garlic, halved, for 2 hours will make the pork juicier and give it a nice aroma.

Lean, tender cuts of pork such as the loin are often roasted on the bone, which adds flavor and helps prevent the meat from drying out during cooking. Boneless pork is also delicious when roasted, so long as you avoid overcooking—a common refrain throughout any lesson on roasting—and build in flavor through various techniques, such as barding with pancetta (page opposite). Because the exterior of the pork will not “sear” in the oven when covered in pancetta, it needs to be browned first on the stove, then rubbed with herbs. To roast the pork without barding, do not sear it first on the stove; the initial high heat of the oven will promote sufficient browning. To ensure a flavorful outcome, season generously with salt and pepper, then rub with some olive oil along with the herbs. Or make small slits in the top of the loin and insert slivers of garlic in each (known as “larding” with garlic, rather than the traditional fatback or lard; this technique is demonstrated in the leg of lamb recipe that follows).

Making homemade pâté, of course, is all about grinding. Here again, you can always buy a ready-made pâté from a specialty store, but making your own allows you total command of the quality of the ingredients and the freshness of the finished product. This recipe is for a country-style pâté, which means that it’s more rustic in texture and appearance than a smoother, mousse-like pâté. Country-style pâté usually includes chicken liver as well as pork and veal. The mixture is ground coarsely, and small cubes of meat, bits of fruit, and nuts—called garnishes—are folded in before the whole thing is packed into a terrine and baked. Maintaining the desired texture depends on making sure that all the ingredients—as well as the grinding equipment itself—are well chilled before you grind. Place everything in the freezer (the grinder for a half hour, the meat for fifteen minutes or so), so it’s very cold, then grind the meats according to their fat content, starting with the fattiest, as these are most likely to lose their structure and become pasty if ground when warm. After baking the terrine in a water bath (bain marie), the final, vital step is weighting the pâté to compress it, eliminating excess moisture and fat and giving it a sliceable texture. Once the terrine is compressed and well chilled, unmold it, then slice with a serrated knife, which will cut cleanly without marring the shape. Serve with its classic accompaniments: good bread, a flavorful grainy mustard, and cornichons.

Not all sauté recipes start with dredging the meat in flour. Instead, this recipe demonstrates how meat can achieve a nice sear simply by relying on the high heat of the pan (and a little science, called the Maillard reactions; see page 126). To encourage browning, you must make sure the meat is dry, as moisture will hinder the process. First, pat the meat dry with paper towels and wait to salt it until just before cooking (since salt will draw the juices to the surface). The sautéed meat will leave golden-brown bits behind, so you’ll want to deglaze the pan and incorporate them into a pan sauce. This one is made with a fragrant combination of brandy, shallots, apples, and raisins (all good partners for pork) and finished with cream, which thickens as it simmers, giving body to the sauce.

Brine-curing the pork makes it soft, tender, and juicy. The pork is cut into small pieces, so it only needs to be cured for 4 hours.

Leave a cool spot on the grill for cooking the roasts after they are glazed; turn them frequently to avoid burning.

The Swiss chard in this dish has a slightly bitter flavor that works well with the fragrant fennel and salty olives. The sliced meat is topped with a delicious uncooked Italian sauce thickened with leftover bread and pulverized toasted nuts.