Celery

If you like fried chicken with cream gravy, you'll love this sauce —sophisticated and rich, with a bit of sweet fruitiness from the Madeira. It's a wonderful alternative to traditional pan gravy. You'll have to choose between this gravy or the cider sage version for the holiday meal, as you'll need the neck and giblets as well as the pan drippings for this recipe.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less but requires additional unattended time.

This easy dressing makes a great side dish for roast chicken or fried pork chops.

Beverly's Grandma Stoll lived in Deep River, Connecticut, and her whole family converged on her house during the holidays. They all have taken the recipe with them wherever they moved. My Southern friends love this variation to their traditional turkey dinner because of the natural, down-home, unexotic flavors of the dressing. Beverly use the liver, but I don't .

I once owned a summer cottage on Sawyer's Island in Maine. The little cove in front of the house, too small to be named on navigational charts, was called Clam Cove by the locals. I never did any clamming — fishing was my thing — but I have a vivid memory of the muddy flats at low tide, feeling the soft-shell clams under my feet and seeing their tiny sprays coming out of the mud as they burrowed down to get out of my way. Soft-shell clams have two oval shells, about two to three inches long, that gape along the edges. Their most prominent feature is a siphon, about a quarter of the length of the shell, which sticks out of the clam. Whole soft-shell clams are often referred to as "steamers," because that is the way they are most often prepared. When salty old-timers refer to "clams," soft-shells are what they mean. Shucked raw, soft-shell clams may be called "fryers" or "frying clams." Frying clams make a superb chowder, but they are very expensive because of the labor involved in shucking them. I prefer to steam whole soft-shell clams for chowder. That way, I save a few dollars and get a fantastic broth in the process. The flavor of steamer broth is sweeter and more subtle and round than the pungent broth quahogs (hard-shell clams) yield. The chowder made from steamers may have a little less strength up front, but it is equal to quahog chowder in deep lingering flavor. To celebrate the difference, I use salt pork instead of bacon in steamer chowder, I don't add garlic, and I use fewer herbs and seasoning, letting the luscious little clams provide most of the flavor. And they always rise to the occasion, producing one of the most delicious chowders imaginable.

Sourdough bread complements the Italian flavors in this stuffing from Bruce Aidells.

What to drink: Sangiovese wines are a classic pairing with robust pasta dishes. Try the Cantina di Montalcino 1999 Poggio del Sasso, a good-value Super Tuscan.

I use a small, plump, shrewdly marketed black lentil dubbed "beluga" for this soup, but you can use dark green French lentils or flat olive-green ones, or you can try other pulses such as split peas — green, orange, or gold. Just be prepared to adjust the amount of stock or water. Whole cumin and black peppercorns, crushed just before you add them to the soup, flavor it boldly. I have served this soup three different ways — straight from the pot, irregularly mashed in a mortar, and fully puréed in a blender or processor. Each method produces a different texture and character, and I like all three.

This is an interesting alternative to potatoes. For the best flavor, try to find low-sodium chicken broth or use half water and half broth.

This dish combines Spanish escabeche (marinated poached fish) with a new take on mojo, a Cuban sauce typically made with the juice of tart oranges, garlic, and herbs.

We wanted to give this savory starter a modern look for the photograph, so we cut away the curved edges of the celery to make flat pieces. If you're short on time, it looks just as nice with the edges left on. You will have about 1/4 cup deviled ham left over — you can make a few more celery hors d'oeuvres or simply put it in the fridge to serve on crackers the next day.

Watch how to prepare and carve your bird with our streaming video demonstration.