South African

The liberal spoonful of Chakalaka (spicy vegetable relish) makes these extra special. If you don’t have a jar of it in your fridge, you can use any type of relish or chutney.

Like chutney in India or salsa in Mexico, no one in South Africa prepares chakalaka, a spicy vegetable relish, the same way. Here is our version, full of vegetables and spices. Serve the chakalaka with bread, rice, grilled meats or fish, stews...anything.

Although used with onions and bell peppers here, this pickling brine works wonderfully well for any type of vegetable you want en escabeche, a common preparation in Mexico. In late summer in New Mexico, as the days begin to shorten and nights get cooler, home cooks will often pickle the remaining abundance of their kitchen gardens to enjoy throughout the winter.

Travel the world's barbecue trail and you’ll find meat on a stick almost everywhere. South Africa's version goes by the Afrikaans name sosatie. Like all good Cape Malay meat dishes, fruit and curry are never far off—the former (usually apricots) interspersed with the meat on the skewers, the latter used to flavor the marinade and sauce. "Cape Malay," by the way, refers to the descendants of Indonesian and Malaysian slaves and indentured servants brought to Cape Town to work in farming. "There is perhaps no other single dish that can be regarded as more genuinely Afrikaans than sosaties," wrote South African poet and food writer C. Louis Leipoldt. Writing in the 1940s, Leipoldt was to Afrikaans food what James Beard was to our own. Like all great food writers, Leipoldt dispensed not only recipes but the wisdom gleaned from considering cooking a manifestation of culture. The following sosaties are based on Leipoldt's.

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from Dinner After Dark: Sexy, Sumptuous Supper Soirées by Colin Cowie. A bredie is the typical slow-cooked stew of Cape Malay cuisine, which is best prepared in a heavy-bottom cast-iron pot or potjie. I've adapted it in a recipe that takes just over an hour to cook. Traditionally, this type of dish would probably have been made with just the lamb knuckles, but I've added the shoulder to provide some additional meat. The sweet and savory flavors are wholly authentic; the dish is like a curry with an extra measure of sweetness to balance the hot spice. You'll taste the delightful hint of cinnamon, which speaks unmistakably of the Orient. It's great with aromatic basmati rice, flavored with chicken stock, turmeric, garlic, and raisins.

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from Dinner After Dark: Sexy, Sumptuous Supper Soirées by Colin Cowie. For more about Cowie, click here. I can't remember a Christmas back at home when we didn't sit around the family table and enjoy my sister Anne's wonderful tart at the end of the meal. It's heartwarming and incredibly convenient: It can be made days in advance and frozen, with no effect on the delicious result. For Christmastime, add 1/2 cup glacéed cherries to the batter; these holiday treats are the red and green cherries, preserved in jars.

This recipe originally accompanied Lobster Curry. Quinces were once so prolific that they were preserved by salting, drying and packing in wickerwork containers. They were also candied and, as in this Cape Malay recipe, made into a sambal which is delicious with curry, as well as with smoked fish dishes. Unlike most sambals, which should be made shortly prior to serving, this may be made a day or two ahead.

This would be a hot contender for South Africa's national dish! The recipe was selected for an international recipe book published in 1951 by the United Nations Organisation. Bobotie is a Cape-Malay creation, and they spice it up even more with cumin, coriander and cloves. A similar dish was known in Europe in the middle ages after the Crusaders had brought turmeric from the East. When our first Dutch settlers arrived, Holland was largely influenced by Italian cooks, and a favorite dish was a hashed meat backed with curried sauce, spiked with red pepper and 'sweetened with blanched almonds.' There are many local variations, but the idea is that the mince should be tender and creamy in texture, which means long, slow cooking. Early cooks added a little tamarind water; lemon rind and juice is a more modern adaptation.

This recipe originally accompanied bobotie. Before we learned to make our own chutney from ingredients as diverse as apricots, dates, quinces and raisins, blatjang was imported from Java, made from sun-dried prawns and shrimps, which were pounded with a wooden pestle and mortar; and shaped into masses resembling large cheeses. Blatjang is the pride of Cape Malay-cuisine, and the recipe is one of the oldest around. The name comes from one of the constituents of the Javanese sambal blachang. Early food writer; C Louis Leipoldt, described it as 'bitingly spicy, pungently aromatic, moderately smooth and a very intimately mixed association of ingredients.' There is nothing quite like blatjang to add zest to curries or braaied meat. Adjust the amount of chilli to suit your preference. Blatjang may be stored for up to a year; but refrigerate once the bottle has been opened.

Cape Malays were the first to braise lobster in spices, which resulted in this delicious curry, for which many variations exist. Earlier writers specify tamarind juice; more recently this has been replaced by lemon juice. For a simpler recipe, use lobster tails instead of whole lobsters and omit the first step in the method.

Geelrys (yellow rice) is great with bobotie and curry. Its other name, begrafnisrys (funeral rice) comes from the fact that it was always part of the meal served after funerals, a tradition of both the Dutch and the Cape Malays.

East meets West in this famous Dutch milk tart, which is usually baked in a deep enamel dish, though a quiche tin may be used. In summer, pastry dough was made late at night, wrapped in a damp muslin cloth and hung in a draft to keep cool. For the lightest crust, the tart was baked before sunrise. The custard was flavoured with dried naartjie (tangerine) peel, blanched almonds and peach kernels, and coconut milk or sweet wine were sometimes added. Some modern cooks add a dash of almond essence.

Our all-time favourite snack — salty, spicy, dried meat — also makes a great garnish for salads, soups and vegetables when finely shaved with a sharp knife. Creative cooks even blend it into pâté to spread on toast. Drying meat and fish was a necessary method of preservation prior to refrigeration. The concept isn't the sole preserve of Afrikaners, though. An earlier delicacy — tassal meat — was similarly prepared: strips of meat were rubbed with salt and coriander, laid in vinegar for a time, then panfried. In rural communities, black tribes would cut up and dry the flesh of animals that died accidentally or of natural causes (cattle were seldom slaughtered for food). The Swazi people call it umcweba or umcwayiba. Coriander seeds, formerly brought from Asia, are an essential ingredient in the preparation of good biltong. The name is Greek for bedbugs — nasty goggas that the seeds resemble!

Our appreciation of peri-peri prawns comes from Mozambique, where these shellfish are cooked in the traditional Portuguese style.

Dhall Curry In this recipe, the legacy of Cape Town, South Africa's Indian immigrants is apparent.

Cape Malay Masala This version of masala is a variation of the traditional Indian spice mix known as garam masala.

I came across this amusing recipe in an old South African cookbook and could not resist the name. Not only are two kinds of white wine plus some brandy called for, but the drier wine that is used for a marinade is thrown away, testimony to the abundance of wine in the fertile Cape province. The chicken roasts surprisingly fast in less than an hour, turning to an even, glowing brown — indeed, my only caution is to avoid letting it color too much. The pearl barley, prune, and apricot pilaf is an appetizing brown, too, studded with the rich colors of the fruit. If you want to work ahead, the pilaf keeps well for several days in the refrigerator, but the chicken is best freshly roasted just before it is served. Wine for Cooking South Africa's recent political renaissance has prompted the reappearance of its wines in American markets at very attractive prices. For the marinade, any dry white will do but, for authenticity's sake, it would be fun to start with a South African wine, perhaps a Cape riesling. For the sauce, a luscious sweet white is needed and a muscat from the Constantia or Robertson district would be ideal. Wine to Drink Sticking to the South African theme at the table, I would suggest a sauvignon blanc or a chardonnay from Stellenbosch, one with sufficient fruit to match the muscat in the sauce and the prunes and apricots in the pearl barley.

Bobotie In the popular South African dish known as bobotie, leftover lamb or beef is minced and combined with bread and spices and baked for awhile before being covered with a custard and baked again. It is generally served in squares or wedges. We have substituted kaffir lime leaves for the lemon leaves called for in the original and used ground meat instead of minced.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.